https://brynletham.com/images daily 0.75 2014-03-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/4f6798afe4b097349e410d49/1383938787527-BODFT7PCTVYTFCBGLTP6/20130731_Trade+100_0220.jpg Images - .. . https://brynletham.com/about daily 0.75 2024-02-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543513454449-TW7CVFB8G0YSKZX4SMY3/PRH+RSL+CURVE.jpg Research The inferred relative sea level curve for the Prince Rupert Harbour area (elevation vs. time), originally published in Letham et al. 2016. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1541475099527-VSC1C5L99AMBLBW1LPYY/Rifle+Range+Core.jpg Research A lake core from near Prince Rupert, British Columbia. Today this freshwater lake is 35 m above sea level. Radiocarbon dates from above and below a transition from marine to freshwater conditions evident in the diatom assemblage indicate that prior to 13,500 years ago this location was a marine basin, and sea level was at least 35 m higher than at present. After 13,500 years ago, sea level dropped below 35 m asl. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543509330972-EBBRY0KSVXQ71NDKC2F2/P8200572.JPG Research Marine clam shells exposed in a bank of the Quaal River, 13 km upriver from the ocean coast today. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/79e57ac9-2918-4b3d-8888-d7414e18c0f9/Figure+11+-+All+RSL+Curves+Revised.jpg Research - Make it stand out Relative Sea Level Curves for Vancouver Island, including the four RSL curves that we have reconstructed for the northern area of the Island (Port McNeill, Port Hardy, Eastern Quatsino Sound, and Outer Quatsino Sound; see Letham et al. 2024 for original publication). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543875114833-NQD3RJSG9IBGBPAVTCS5/DSCN2761.JPG Research Four-meter-deep shell deposit at Garden Island in Prince Rupert Harbour. The above-tide portion of the island is made almost entirely of human-deposited shell and other cultural debris. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543875864238-Z9J187U968D3U88FMUUO/20160531_183628.jpg Research A culturally modified coastline on Quadra Island, in the Discovery Islands on the south coast of BC: at the far edge of the intertidal zone (flooded by water in the photo) is rock wall for a clam garden, in the center of the photo is a canoe run through a boulder and bedrock patch, and above the beach is a flat landform consisting almost entirely of accumulated shell, on which a village once stood. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1545336643100-H8I8RLBSZ1H2HAYBM1IO/GbTo-23_and_GcTo-6.jpg Research Examples of shell deposition that significantly transform landforms at Prince Rupert Harbour villages: Garden Island is an island almost entirely constructed of anthropogenic shell. Photo courtesy of Coastal and Ocean Resources and the Prince Rupert Port Authority (http://www.rupertport.com/port-authority/sustainability/shoreline-habitat). At the McNichol Creek village site (GcTo-6), a ridge of shell rises 7 m up from the natural landform behind the village. In the inset photo, the person in the red jacket stands on the crest of the ridge while the person in the foreground is standing at the base of the ridge behind the site on the natural ground surface. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543875020810-LNWAJQB37LR7GCKPI30P/DSCN2777.JPG Research Rows of canoe runs formed by clearing lanes within boulders in front of an ancient village on Garden Island, Prince Rupert Harbour. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543873951282-4DS9NK26PITM0JOFZBHE/20160813_095714.jpg Research House mounds at Galahahaaytk/Man-Made Island. From left to right, Ginevra Toniello, Dana Lepofsky, and Spencer Greening stand on and in between two mounds on which plank houses once stood. The low area in the middle floods during high high tides, while the areas raised for houses remain above water and dry. Photo by B. Letham. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537244224762-O6LI0Q62VXG8WAOZRD0C/P6133895.JPG Research https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537244495369-5W9WOFSI4FI4B9CBXHCH/20180913_081400.jpg Research https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537246539990-0ZU4FNRJX4GBIY4C3SH2/DSC02616.JPG Research https://brynletham.com/publications daily 0.75 2025-10-20 https://brynletham.com/journal daily 0.75 2026-01-04 https://brynletham.com/journal/2026/1/2/iraqi-kurdistan-2025-plus-a-layover-in-istanbul monthly 0.5 2026-01-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417644992-IC4GULRPILWPYK7NYD4K/20250919_173942_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) souq in a sandstorm - downtown Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417625853-CPVEK6OUIV9P2SGHV3LG/20250919_164615.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) an overpass bridge in the Ainkawa neighbourhood of Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417633453-9YVS2CRVILNTGSVYZXUD/20250919_164735.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) an unfinished highrise gets hit by a sandstorm, Ainkawa neighbourhood, Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417621288-VSACVZG4A3LUOOLTW3NE/20250918_174915.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) sunset on our dig house rooftop. prime location for swilling a Reem beer - Ainkawa, Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417695606-PCR357R4YT6G6R3IXW16/20250923_175426.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) powerlines and a monument - Ainkawa, Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417650197-U2GFQQXY59L7K9VZTBUI/20250919_172708.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) lanterns for sale in the Erbil bazaar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417495640-B9XBCZE78EI3VH9NXIVF/20250904_181953_cropped.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) shopping mall! - Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417494273-896IA8MX586SOY0IBSC3/20250904_182031_cropped.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) The mall is festooned with statues of significant Kurdish women - Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417508097-7PQX2RCNNBLR76JL6SFY/20250907_125238_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) creepy ice cream man. necessary stop in the 43 degree heat after digging - Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417506919-WB9K9HUXVRE01JDC3DRG/20250905_111112_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) peering out from Shanidar Cave, famous Neanderthal archaeological site https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417540390-JYXUPZEHDK5585ZBCJS1/20250912_104928.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) the mountains above Akre, a village north of Erbil in the Kurdish highlands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417540129-I8N8LCUC5DPJXMA9QOWS/20250912_120355.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) door and window - Akre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417556609-E845VCD51EETGOECJK2I/20250912_121214_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) flowers in Akre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417583234-KDF6BK7NF8Q2I7UB4UAZ/20250912_121634.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Akre street sights https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417606507-0Q8KPK0UFZGRKNFE6VMW/20250912_122911.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) wall of hand prints - Akre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417557158-RCWWVIEEARVJBEF4EUZY/20250912_120716_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Akre from above https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417566334-CVYGLV8BELUW9BRQKZKP/20250912_122109_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Fig sellers in central Akre - famous for the fresh fruit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417585858-YO7PR90BUUQ2HS7XP7IW/20250912_122315.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) the best figs you’ll ever taste - Akre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417609774-VMZ7NUFYNU3HML1Y1P18/20250914_170852.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) shaved melon-ice stand at the Kirkuk turnoff from the highway south from Erbil to Surezha. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417596221-59T1ZO9U8C0LYAP3VXH5/20250912_131619_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) lunch! - delicious slow-stewed Qalia in Akre https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417702291-3I9YQUB9GP2RTTY5FIDH/20250925_203101.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) kebab! - the best Ainkawa has to offer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417666250-N90C4JVN4SKM97IPP9DR/20250919_185146.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) night time taxi stand - downtown Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417680258-TN10Q6TJ02SF0LIA4FBG/20250919_185924_crop2.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) shoe peddlers, downtown Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417688602-8FLOJI6HIVPC6C30BYGQ/20250919_185946_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) shoe peddlers - downtown Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417663411-DO4PC7GK8VTLIKYCQBNX/20250919_184907.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) the tobacco sellers are shutting up shop in the Erbil bazaar at nigh https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417676643-M39EF4N60EN7FQETEIFS/20250919_185823_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) evening in the Erbil bazaar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767417670623-TZ3SC226D9OXED0UW0TP/20250919_185347_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) a relaxing smoke and a tea, downtown Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418193133-EZ157GWEOA86G40UF04B/20250930_180517.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) From Erbil to Istanbul - where our AirBnB that promised a view of the Galata Tower provided a better view of the neighbouring mosque’s minaret. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418194832-OCPYS0M9RQEEMGMYVYUV/20250930_181452.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) kitties on a bike - Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418201094-PUOPH43LTGY0EHXWSD64/20250930_183104_crop2.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Istanbul sunset from Galata bridge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418231714-AOUJT6Z0LIX3Y0O1PP7C/20250930_184139.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) fishing off Galata Bridge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418209400-AEYSOKR4C9W3JWJBCRY3/20250930_183603_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) anybody who has been to Istanbul has taken this photo - Galata Bridge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418211604-YXRLEQ5SKWRQ7WRPI9S0/20250930_183906_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Istanbul skyline, powerlines https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418236664-QL5POV8TA07PDH58K2R0/20250930_185510.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Yeni Camii (Mosque) - Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418238596-7VUX7LYJ0GXKVMDWQXAJ/20250930_185601_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Yeni Camii, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418304056-1JVTG43U4G2B33PFZSYB/20251002_134410.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Suleymaniye Camii, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418251482-FLXIX6GDKSPPNK20ISQ8/20251001_145138_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Sutlac - Turkish Rice Pudding. Absolutely to die for at Nizam Pide Salonu, in Beyoglu, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418252950-AEV6Y1Q4H1I9KJAOQEYE/20250930_190306_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) rickety building, full of life - Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418272743-6L0FUS88LUSWLCAF2RNR/20251001_151140.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) winding staircases, Beyoglu, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418261176-YC5VZV49WYIRKMLD177V/20251001_181434_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) patrons staring at their phones in a nargile cafe in Cemberlitas, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418273267-TIV230ASABCXAB8IQTXU/20251001_182122_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) coals for nargile in Cemberlitas, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418294464-M2UXSRMECJYFUON7Y2Z4/20251001_182126.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) alleyways in Cemberlitas, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418285977-5N25PJJTGEHVHSWW3ZHT/20251002_125704_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) a gust of wind sends the gulls amok - Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418312111-9EFSFTI2ZZXWO79H1E5N/20251002_140228_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) a quiet moment with the graves at Suleymaniye Camii, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1767418317984-QJP9P64V6UPGBN0A53L3/20251004_182716_crop.jpg Travels - Iraqi Kurdistan 2025 (plus a layover in Istanbul...) Sunset in Kadikoy, Istanbul https://brynletham.com/journal/2025/1/19/uzbekistan-and-kazakhstan-2024-nukus-to-aktau-by-train monthly 0.5 2025-01-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314361594-X01899COIU30M3OD9CLK/20241127_174324.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Downtown Nukus - the westernmost large city in Uzbekistan and capital of the semi-autonomous Karakalpakstan Republic. Its a Soviet city out in the desert-steppe, and it feels like it! Definitely remote and isolated - but also oddly charming and super friendly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314354820-314CFLX6LNCSQYE0PJNN/20241127_174233-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Central Square in Nukus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737315527793-4TJPHU40MN10J934RELA/20241128_155049.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Residential area in Nukus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314343474-YB7UBCBU5RDDDIG4KN0A/20241126_202724-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Nukus at night. The Amu Darya River runs through the middle of the city. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737315515230-021V2QQ0UM8VQKHTYV5Q/20241128_124433.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train One quirky gem of Nukus is the Savitsky Art Museum. During the Soviet period artists who did not conform to the Soviet Standard for art sent their works to Nukus to protect them from destruction, since Nukus is pretty much the most remote place on the planet… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737315519447-UKN9YOAQ3XJAH405W7MO/20241127_185524.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train A geometric walking bridge in Nukus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314385660-UWZ4ES5DVA7D43CTKU4V/20241128_154408.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train At the fish market in Nukus. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314370776-2J76VYLA0M3VCOJW8FW3/20241128_154220.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train ‘Here, have a fish.’ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314386171-J8SHZTSCT0XYZMPTR8CU/20241128_154649.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train This guy confided in us that he had spent all morning drinking vodka down by the river… and well, ya. He really wanted to hang out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314317247-ZUXTVIMYEIKHOICV8D4T/20241118_174210-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train All aboard! Uzbek trains are mostly refurbished Soviet trains, and are an absolute hoot to travel around on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314343526-GYLM6R07QK4JTPT9BT4Z/20241125_110227-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Through the steppe and desert we roll… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314333948-RP1FN9RGX2DSY2QVWQN2/20241124_102825.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train This girl was sleeping in Rasha’s bed when we boarded in the middle of the night and the conductor rather rudely kicked her out. We thought she’d be pissed, but instead she offered to do henna tattoos on Rasha the next morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314334889-QHAURQEXLGZENVX5TAW4/20241124_103840.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Everyone gets to be one big family on the Uzbek train! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314403627-V5KV1B37HG997O4PBZ67/20241128_212500.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Smoked fish and vodka were on the menu when we crossed the Uzbek-Kazakh border. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314403179-EF8XK19TDF909Y6NICN2/20241129_130259.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Lots of time to read while watching the steppe roll past… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314413206-MVBCRBQM4TYVTXUGS64O/20241130_093452-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Aktau, Kazakhstan. The far western end of that country, and main Caspian Sea port. On a previous trip I took a boat from here across to Azerbaijan, but now Azerbaijan’s borders are closed, so we had to fly out… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314317765-YQNSG7MTTBKVKS9334BL/20241113_185021-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Soviet era neighbourhoods in Aktau. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314412445-XVVPEC25CMULAP8OUGXZ/20241129_211509-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train Skateboarding on the martyrs monument in Aktau. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314433768-WOPFKKH3087I8YA7IMP6/20241130_101433.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train The shores of the Caspian Sea. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314433537-WFFF46KJL4SCHN29XLQ1/20241130_101427.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train When I was here in 2017 the city was entirely drab old Soviet buildings. Now Aktau is getting a full rehaul with some impressive skyscrapers along the shoreline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737314440609-DYCZN5IN88MCYHGH0TIW/20241130_101942-crop2.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan 2024: Nukus to Aktau by Train New erections in Aktau... from here we hopped on a flight to Istanbul, where we spent a week before wrapping up our journey in Germany with Rasha’s friends and family there. https://brynletham.com/journal/2025/1/18/uzbekistan-2024-margilan-to-khiva-by-train monthly 0.5 2025-01-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229626252-6TCTNP1QLA71TZHMD21L/20241112_201144crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Central Tashkent, a statue of Amir Timur presides over things, Hotel Uzbekistan stands grandiose in the background. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229659648-PO82ZSOZE0N3SENZEE8W/20241114_102946-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Large, nondescript monumental buildings pepper Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229681969-XCHYO44J1TAA4NAE8HOS/20241114_102751.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Tashkent’s wide, leafy sidewalks are kept leaf-free by an army of civil sweepers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229649140-4WN111MNIVHZ0TW7LH54/20241113_204715-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train We caught a professional production of ‘La Traviatta’ at the gorgeous Alisher Navoi Opera House in Tashkent for the equivalent of $7. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229649521-GTW9UKH4SNFL93AQS0WX/20241113_123147-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Soviet Era busts and murals in Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229679312-2XZ72406TEFDM1TQG4BG/20241114_110553.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The Circus! In Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229730607-BVI675J9EKCYG9G89LDC/20241114_134215.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229709774-H7QN5O6DS90PU3XXD6QE/20241114_134207.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The meat section, Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229706674-3ZQRK4Q7JBJ798WKS49O/20241114_133616.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The pickle section, Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229723921-ACROQ06RMM51TXQ45WPJ/20241114_140109-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The spice and onion section, Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229747425-UK6R73HT5536GMKDT1A4/20241114_152134.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The old and the new; the religious and the secular, Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229746812-8ZUNJCIID386GHEZ6O7W/20241114_161545-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A sculpture in the capital of one of the world’s only double land-locked countries, and one of the farthest paces from any of the world’s oceans…. Tashkent. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229629979-V9WUA2V8XRMG8U01H37V/20241112_164745.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Urinal instructions at Tashkent Airport. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229791412-HW4ORXA8ZSKQINMR2A9W/20241116_112813-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The city of Margilan, in the Fergana Valley, eastern Uzbekistan. Margilan is renowned in the region for its silk textile production. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229766968-AI6GP3MQCQQ0NKTD7P2S/20241115_163617.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Margilan is renowned for its silk textile production. Here is one of the early steps in making ‘Ikat’ style woven silk fabric. Bundles of threads are masked off to produce a particular pattern when dipped in dyes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229763038-B2CFVJXXVLFRDY53QHG4/20241115_163802-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train After dying, the threads are arranged into the pattern that they will form once woven. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229778615-Y4I10DZ8FUUOGUJ12908/20241115_164304-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Threads are woven into Ikat fabric on looms like this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229789969-SZOA5LKK2CMUJDBMFQWF/20241115_164446.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Ikat fabric on the loom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229831169-D492FLIOZCDW91OCXF63/20241116_125838.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train This young lady, Fairuza, was VERY excited to show us how to weave. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229812780-3KQY7WE1TPEF9JZS1IHT/20241116_125355.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Rasha tries weaving Fairuza’s fabric. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229831926-HKE8GLLKDB0UEHNRWWAT/20241116_130120.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Rasha and Fairuza. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229857369-WVK8CU1CPDQM710F0VG4/20241116_151521.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Another way of colouring silk fabric: tie-dying in Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229879874-MDHQ27EY9QTR3IMEBSEO/20241116_151828.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A tie-dyed silk scarf, right before our eyes, Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229926855-HP1VKL3EPNBK4T21WQYM/20241117_125751.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Ikat fabrics and products for sale at Kumtepe bazaar in Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229977308-EO86L1NMAG0AP0GGX8T6/20241117_173208.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Margilan is also famous for its silk rug weaving. I was told that this rug would take three years to complete, and would cost about $85,000 USD. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230000504-BT99YQMSF3YYGEBOLE8F/20241117_173217.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Dyed strings of silk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229855728-P18KQS7YRIVLMEKII94F/20241116_131800.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A silk weaver’s toolkit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229881784-RC5ULQTO1YNPVII55I0V/20241117_120502-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Wandering around Kumtepe Bazaar in Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229871475-NIRUG1QH92HPAM634P6H/20241117_120239-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Kumtepe Bazaar, Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229896537-DM4T88OTRMXLFZIZIBS3/20241117_122505-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The place to buy black boots at Kumtepe Bazaar in Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229948497-UCLU5ZVRI95OP5XYGYUY/20241117_150813-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Kumtepe Bazaar, Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229907765-MRPN9M3JPQLNGN1XZEKK/20241117_121220.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Uzbek pickles! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229938413-A3FN2XZBBU81DH2G0WVT/20241117_150235.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Dried apricots in Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229810075-AC33TGF9LY5REDMAXLQO/20241116_122405-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train ‘Non’ - Uzbek bread. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230395594-OQGF8SHU51W3PA9WUWGL/20241128_162722-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Samsas - Uzbek meat pastries. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229974731-ZG11027I4SLC9FHGLQ5J/20241117_154255.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A cock among some ducks, Kumtepe Bazaar, Margilan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230088709-JIKSDLTYGTDRB5ZDETOG/20241119_162839.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Boom! From Margilan back through Tashkent and on to Samarkand by train. Here we are in the Registan Square, Samarkand’s most famous Silk Road monumental ensemble. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230067852-DF6Q4GAWUQV7FZ6VR7I0/20241119_161920.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The Registan Square, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230008257-WCDE230ZILZAOUGNXV07/20241119_095740.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Fancy tilework on the gate of the Bibi Khanim Mosque in Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230035835-07ZM75XQIZRUEDI95FOE/20241119_115624.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The back side of the Registan, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230072158-XO7G7Q6IL7DKO5FY5QIK/20241119_162303-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Pondering the Registan, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230119563-HPPYS180FEA3A8FNBYT7/20241119_170154.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Inside Registan’s madrassehs, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230118542-0X4S7HEIULVLY2PX2LLC/20241119_170050.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Exploring the Registan Madressahs, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230157466-ZXMC80B0BVHR63KZEB7D/20241119_174635.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The Registan Square, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230248195-SWC4D1C0K96AC6H5RUEA/20241120_172028.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train ‘Yet another blue tiled dome’, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230044593-0V3D5D8OKS9V3RDWVFM5/20241119_143212-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A statue of Uzbekistan’s former president/dictator, Islam Karimov. He was not a very nice guy. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230157302-BIEG9M9U7JL3QL7DJA2W/20241120_114024-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A transaction of love in Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230192732-YFDOR8YFRB2IA742U53L/20241120_132512.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Doing my part of an Uzbek’s civic duty to keep the streets swept clean in Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230053394-7BAO4EC6ISHY5E7FPD2J/20241119_142527.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Old residential quarter in Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230176196-3DYKGL6LH1IWNU2J3IQK/20241120_120238-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A bazaar in Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230027463-OAIJXT6Q8YZFEWVOG34W/20241119_112412.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Tea in front of the Bibi Khanim Mosque, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230227811-FF1G0YFWJUF4Q3SWX9P9/20241120_161633-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Bibi Khanim Mosque, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230210380-48QOIMPTFGRW08VO0DLF/20241120_161207-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Inside the Bibi Khanim Mosque, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230225060-RZDETLS4QL48RR475UAS/20241120_162620-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Bibi Khanim Mosque, Samarkand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230267557-H05KZET5MK2A2QDFK49D/20241121_172045-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A purveyor of rugs in Bukhara, the next Silk Road beauty down the line… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737310900783-05LTI47A1KYPQA7AEX47/20241122_183400.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train This rug salesman in Bukhara was more interesting in pounding cognac with us than selling rugs. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230296290-6AJL1K3DM6DAVIWP4022/20241121_190043.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The Khalon Minaret in Bukhara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230318929-M43QJP0VFCWPBBU3XWDC/20241122_155901.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Friday Mosque in Bukhara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230321780-6U05733M0B0QBHQB5XMA/20241122_155654.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Columns and ceiling of the outdoor area of the Friday Mosque in Bukhara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230334582-VZS4XEB2ACML94J3RQSW/20241122_171625.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A Soviet era water tower, converted into a tourist viewing pad, looming over the skyline in Bukhara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230296110-NI0SSK0KEPJFD8B2ANLR/20241122_143942.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Plov! The Uzbek National dish! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230272024-FV6HLKEAEOFGP74XZ4FM/20241121_161047.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Lagman! An Uighur-inspired delightful noodle dish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230346154-UFBMTNRY78H62KONANGH/20241124_140231.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A smattering of various Uzbek dishes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230353587-9PHXRTXRUSHKW7PD0NS2/20241124_165227.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Next down the line on the Silk Road: Khiva! Here we are up on the walls of the Old City. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230358339-DYEQ5IHA6FWAY8W4RLEL/20241124_170618-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train The great walls of Khiva. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230362629-IJWUB4X6JKQQ07V18NT6/20241125_124744-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train We took a day trip out to explore the archaeological remains of the ancient fortresses of Khorezm, out in the desert north of Khiva. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230383683-ELQNAL4EW7UECTIMR03I/20241125_125513.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Old fortress walls, Khorezm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230385643-NRH6N0KQPL93LRU7RNAY/20241125_130410.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Old fortress walls, Khorezm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230391625-BD0QP1NQ8VNRCLT5K069/20241125_163032-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train A glassy reflection on a lake north of Khiva. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737229632940-UT0LYQKCHHGG5ZKP8XVW/20241112_223338-crop.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train And here begins my mini photo series: geometric patterns of Uzbekistan! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737250036321-99ZMNNBISIOOAJCBSKCI/20241114_134229.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Geometric patterns of Uzbekistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230103725-V06LHGZPOGDPWGW9F3QD/20241119_163952.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Geometric patterns of Uzbekistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230209411-LFT4S6OBHTNM2AVUUPNE/20241120_160114.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Geometric patterns of Uzbekistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230249743-PZ5PLMXSAR61R0YLE11W/20241120_165811.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Geometric patterns of Uzbekistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1737230139145-2A00RG5VN4A4HAHNUHGL/20241119_173507.jpg Travels - Uzbekistan 2024: Margilan to Khiva by Train Geometric patterns of Uzbekistan. https://brynletham.com/journal/2025/1/6/a-moment-in-georgia-november-2024 monthly 0.5 2025-01-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200582212-5DDQZHGGD4PV5MGKG15H/20241104_082008.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 A view from my friend Data Makashvili’s family apartment in Gori, central Georgia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736201193386-N5LD5CKU2Z8T95QF7YSC/IMG-20241116-WA0049.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 I met Data in 2009 while traveling in Egypt. He invited me to visit him in Georgia the same year, and we have been friends ever since. I try to visit him and his family as frequently as possible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200559065-C0JTGW8YL6NFQX97DT6Z/20241103_153029.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 A church built upon the ruins of the ancient fortress of Uplitskhe, near Gori. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200531915-K59FXTFCFH6JFKG3I7UB/20241103_152504.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 The ruins of Uplitskhe are carved into the bedrock above the Mtkvari River. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200898215-6BM1YYZDG7V09RMVCASX/IMG-20241116-WA0048.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Data and I discussing life at Uplitskhe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200560783-YFQBXZB6MFZEJ1K3COBA/20241103_155310.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Inside the church at Uplitskhe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200892675-J7AER1P0EL8SQ5DXXX1Q/IMG-20241116-WA0039-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Dinner at the Makashvili house, with Data, his father Tamaz, and his mother Ia. They have informally adopted me as their ‘fifth son’. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200537013-44D3ZH3ITZPXRURE88Q2/20241102_203217.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Georgian food is a sight to behold and wonderful ride for the tastebuds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200582172-SB5TGTWBZ791NQXZSXUA/20241104_213859.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 The piece to resistance of Georgian cuisine, and the best dumplings in existence: Khinkali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200648718-8ZK6QBEWGTWM3ODQ4ASL/20241106_160402-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 From Gori Rasha and I traveled to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200611478-ZQ4CJON3HAH9KDW6VK5X/20241104_220644.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Tbilisi at night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200610860-VMQGBWJR5M6G2Z42PYJH/20241105_120821.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Tbilisi during the day. There is lots of colourful graffiti throughout the city. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200618517-HJ5QQD9T8JNG06J4ET8R/20241105_143424-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Georgia is divided between aspirations to join the European Union and being neighbour to its former colonial superpower to the north: Russia. Many in Georgia are very discontent with Russia, despite the election (possibly rigged) of a pro-Russian government days before we arrived. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200637557-VLFD18U685AJ0NJIIGTB/20241106_153310-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Tbilisi’s streets are painted with many messages for Russia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200631180-GXO8Z277MBD2U7J32SSZ/20241105_143528.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Well, that’s just like, your opinion, man. Spotted in Tbilisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200676959-12CKNRXCSFSD2VTQKD11/20241107_155018.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Tbilisi graffiti. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200684108-304CZ40TBY1ZP1AOG5Z4/20241108_114535-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 A painting of a Georgian supra (feast), Tbilisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200651985-ZXDD9LA1G93R3I8LEXV0/20241107_155011-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Tbilisi underground. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200666735-GYEGN9C0PFR6DN6CH0U9/20241107_155104-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Joviality, Tbilisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200686296-LYRZHHSAN7RN01CL5IPZ/20241108_165553-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Human evolution, Tbilisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200700451-5HBF5P5RIUB45RXD33DN/20241108_172957-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Some darn nice lithics, Tbilisi Museum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200697673-WHAB6D1GAODSHHDZ9M2L/20241108_194621-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Food and drink abound in Georgia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200712082-8ZH2RCSPSFTWSR2IIUX7/20241109_145629-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 A road trip to Kutaisi, and then towards Balda, Data’s family’s village. This is Bagdati Church in Kutaisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200703411-96S1OMFB8YIV8K7I56TE/20241109_145226-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Wedding ceremony, Kutaisi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200727690-LCG3C7PY1PQGY899QCCD/20241109_202110-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 More feasting upon our arrival to Data’s grandmother’s home in Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200752278-KLX6AGJOTN59DN1IV9GB/20241109_202128.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 More feasting upon our arrival to Data’s grandmother’s home in Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200906799-YY8SZB9A5HNTBZLD4TEJ/IMG-20241116-WA0067.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Data and his grandmother, in Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200724796-NSXH8XB2BGND44Q3G3NZ/20241109_190429.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Balda village is famous for its beautiful canyon and river system. Unfortunately, a large company is trying to develop the canyon into a tourist attraction in such a way that would destroy the natural beauty of the place. Balda villagers, led by Data’s cousins, have set up a protest camp to try and stop unwanted development in Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200850510-1O4HPWM9Z4W3CP3JRNCK/20241110_173112.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Data and Rasha warming up in the protest camp. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200902486-5NYFWNH8POY2D1AAX96J/20241111_095655.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Balda Canyon https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200757897-8PVD3SLUKQQ0E6LXQ0Z6/20241110_140236.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Some of the natural beauty around Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200779262-SYD7TU6YOGNBRMDCTLXY/20241110_140349.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Some of the natural beauty around Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200821150-OH0WOQY4HPEU6P1AJEAW/20241110_153433.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Some of the natural beauty around Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200904876-V5DZNGOTSG7KW7KM0Q5F/IMG-20241116-WA0063-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Cooling off in the river near Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200776585-VMSNYG507CKT63G9GGNB/20241110_150622-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Hiking around Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200827561-1VVYPB01UL7BIZ7A0TET/20241110_172356.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Cows, Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200886203-3X15QSIRZ8L9IPUOH6MW/IMG-20241116-WA0036-crop.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Data’s cousin Tsotne, practicing archery in Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200861897-ZOO4HSTHEMMOVM1CFGNN/20241110_174027.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Persimmons, Balda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736200879711-48WRVSA5R5IC3IZ4N70N/20241110_174909.jpg Travels - A moment in Georgia, November 2024 Data’s grandmother’s house, Balda. https://brynletham.com/journal/2025/1/5/eastern-turkey-2024-mardin-to-kars-plus-a-later-stopover-in-istanbul monthly 0.5 2025-01-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098556287-XN75GEGRHPC9YH0QRYQZ/20241020_124527.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) The old city of Mardin, perched on a hill overlooking the northern Mesopotamian plain… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098638928-V4YS0BCWUKFGWYV19B3G/20241023_140148-crop2.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Mardin Old City https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098645612-2BDDRDUDLI82M6HAD8WT/20241023_142532-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Mardin Old City - in the bazaar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098555468-5ZKOU7VPOA6GG35BK7SH/20241020_142540.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) flippin’ pigeons, in Mardin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098568717-1KPO78LHUY7URETKPP0C/20241020_152814-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Rasha’s old friend from her archaeology days in Syria, Sabah Qassem, in his art studio in Mardin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098569492-NSIPTPH4GOK0Q0G7VGYQ/20241021_163040-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) A Kurdish village near Mardin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098583147-0XR4M8OB21PZTI30MGKQ/20241021_163102.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ahmet and Derya - wonderful friends who we met in Mardin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098585402-7OMQ4VSOU22QCM3MVR5Y/20241021_201814.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Evening dinner party in Mardin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098607886-MYZD7WX1VDLAGMMZLGPU/20241022_145746.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) A view out over northern Mesopotamia from the archaeological site of Gobeklitepe, near the modern city of Sanliurfa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098602913-FHA7NIGFB33H21E9JIYN/20241022_150747-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) 10,000 year old monumental stone pillars at Gobeklitepe - possibly some of the earliest religious architecture of its kind. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098623593-BHA28DI67350X9J2T4B8/20241022_152813.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) The visitors’ infrastructure built around Gobeklitepe makes for an immersive experience of the site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098620178-838KPY7HNZ7ZQS99MMQ5/20241022_172855-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) a water pond of some religious significance in Sanliurfa https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098655224-CTPTP1RBA35DRII16D63/20241023_143137.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Tea and Gozleme in Old Mardin https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098635789-LZHOZ448X4CM3SPVDW1I/20241022_181211-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Lahmacun in Sanliurfa https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098691282-0885NINLRCZD16EUQK0E/20241025_085907-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) One of the most spectacular Kavahlti (Turkish Breakfasts) I’ve ever had - in Diyarbakir. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098665574-HSK4EZPRFU474WPEZHD6/20241024_131127-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Let there be light - Great Mosque, Diyarbakir. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098656190-0S3W7FM6AQRRZ7R3FPRC/20241024_131108-crop2.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) A meeting at the mosque, Diyarbakir. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098668789-5J7P7MUYEXV9N2HOKJQK/20241024_131251-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ornate stonework, Great Mosque of Diyarbakir. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098679349-EFI9C94FC65SOJWO44W7/20241024_141829-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Exploring the old black basalt walls of Diyarbakir - ‘black the walls, black the dogs, and black the hearts of black Diyarbakir’ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098690344-LNVHLMVD2A310AMUB893/20241024_175013.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Alleyways in Diyarbakir. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098734124-RYCBD86INHJDG5AEGEHS/20241027_152624-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Van City! (SE Turkey, not SE Canada). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098704760-JSKS4DG5763VG5H7U7QQ/20241026_124908-crop2.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Cemetery in Van. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098704364-DI1H32YGOFSHKN9BDRZ9/20241026_135958-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Urartian Fortress, Van. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098725238-0HAMHL2YOHH5TXYPY4UV/20241026_140600.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Urartian Fortress, Van. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098724042-RROON5YQVUT2A7IF3TV2/20241026_143024.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Looking out over Lake Van. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098766079-K2JVIDQIDCDDE4X07TJA/20241028_165611-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Mount Ararat! Viewed from Dogubeyazit, at the nexus of the Armenian-Iranian-Turkish borders. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098785225-HTWHCDN179H3C1XCQA5A/20241028_165955.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) I missed the point. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098765726-4HR2XWP93DCRAV2Y4WJ4/20241028_160458-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Produce market, Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098755670-BOMIO5GAWT1YHYAOF512/20241028_155034.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) The biggest cabbages I have ever seen - Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098755050-3M5WYGMGD7LHW1OWH2SD/20241028_155015.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Here, let’s add a human for scale. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098803967-GPJ2TG4AL2NVLD203WNC/20241029_152812.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Partners in crime hiking up to Ishak Pasha Palace and the ruins of another Urartian Castle near Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098779382-7JX21EGE4YYJZM946L2R/20241029_142337-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ishak Pasha Palace, Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098786335-K89P3XA5Q8XV1D6RDGWE/20241029_144004-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Wandering around Ishak Pasha Palace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098792589-AL56XVKDY5Y2OB7QLP9J/20241029_144316-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ishak Pasha Palace, Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098807367-KSF2E9Y8ZF1QP2H366JD/20241029_153221.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Let’s see how many artistic shots of Ishak Pasha Palace I can take… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098869314-ZSF2C3SUHGVDEETSMO34/20241029_164834.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ishak Pasha Palace, Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098821947-ZTJQFHO6KPR2WMNYJ2VB/20241029_153930.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) There it is again! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098863594-5BVFZYIXN5UKA2PSSZLY/20241029_164806.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098828216-YV6YNMDOCI53VVR1W1E4/20241029_154536.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) This guy was mad. Pondering existence near Dogubeyazit. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098852779-YYN95YKVQUF5R09QJ6W3/20241029_161053.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Surprise! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098842629-NO312HECF460Q2NQ02JD/20241029_161842-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Hiking in the mountains around Ishak Pasha Palace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098876006-5B1V5A7O32W5FQJG6HFS/20241030_205455-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) SRAK! I mean, Kars! We’ve made it to northeast Turkey… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098875297-GRAWP6L9ZNZ4CU0UWCYD/20241030_204503-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) The father of the Turks, covering up some beautiful early 1900s Tsarist Russian architecture in Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098883626-WVUEJFYZGCNKK918QG68/20241031_181324-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) A stone bridge in Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098894260-MNGD2MDLHPYKENXJN417/20241031_193702.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Mingling with the locals in Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098929302-6R5B958H43P7WS9E4PZD/20241101_165924.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Old Russian buildings, Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098930170-YKG8IQX4KV5JYRMN0V7G/20241101_170428-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Neighbourhoods of Kars https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098932990-5RML5YLQ9WNH0SB2LHHH/20241101_170647-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Birds on a wire, Kars https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098909990-ZLBQQSGTGI3A3LBPZI98/20241101_103939.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ani, the ancient Armenian Capital (in Turkey) - near to Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098908346-ELJ7WLBEC4VJZL509SNC/20241101_111807-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Ani, the ancient Armenian Capital (in Turkey) - near to Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098916615-LOCW74HDSE1JX02HD80E/20241101_113942-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Peering across the river into Armenia from Ani. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098940579-7ANEIM7Q5ISU15TCQJ3E/20241101_171653-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Wandering the streets of Kars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098953736-YAMU8ZCJO1P6KH2S64P2/20241203_130516-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Fast forward a month and a half! We are in Istanbul for a week! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098943767-D8ADKDTFL987T8PVOGFG/20241202_205425.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Take a moment with this photo; there’s a lot going on here. - somewhere in Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098948582-CVWR0XWDCX2UN6V0D9BC/20241202_210247-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Istanbul streets at night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098975536-01M5489YHDNZATG7TWOP/20241203_181744-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Istanbul skyline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098968460-7P3GN4JXZQM304OI7IIO/20241203_142655.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Fatih Mosque, Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098974443-RIO15V4M2KNHESRO05NO/20241203_143340.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) The cats of Fatih Mosque, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098987333-ST8MQBBEZBEV0MHRPLHW/20241204_125719-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Street art by Yabanci spotted in Kadikoy, Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736098999063-98JQDC8K8FJ3GB9RI9U5/20241205_135505.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Byzantine ruins turned into an art gallery, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099012422-D4OVI7CWK9QFCC0NBS9Y/20241205_150141.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Geometric buildings, Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099046187-W60U2HSOM0JKAJ3GQC64/20241206_152031-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Borek and Cay! Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099040739-W498V560IT09TW90CEG5/20241205_211404-crop.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) Raki, Salgam, and Su! Istanbul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099020615-YDL8B2KMBTB96XF0JO8M/20241205_160403.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) obligatory photo of Aya Sofia, Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099042414-LYE8M0VLTFGY9NN898FQ/20241205_170222.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) obligatory of the Blue Mosque, Istanbul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1736099031877-TZNFJH4XOI81K9LTG518/20241205_162051.jpg Travels - Eastern Turkey, October 2024: Mardin to Kars (plus a later stopover in Istanbul) peering from one to the other, Istanbul. https://brynletham.com/journal/2024/12/9/iraq-2024 monthly 0.5 2024-12-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768342179-YEWAYS6A34AT0WYQLJBB/20240930_173138.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Baghdad streets at sunset. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768338777-Y1PNIAI3XE0N9WJYM135/20240930_170347.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Wall painted with Iraqi flag, Baghdad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768338107-GXY47IRLQP2YIWSYWJZI/20240930_171123.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Murals in Baghdad https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768436504-R5WL7BVC1EPQD5UOR2O5/20241006_110208.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Al-Rasheed Street, Baghdad’s old city https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768432469-T5UPWRTGQUN8FJIYR3TY/20241006_103645.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Tahrir Square monument in central Baghdad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768343849-YFLUP7I20V9RBWFJ9CBK/20240930_174744.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Baghdad streets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768437330-YANO9TEARJ1Q80O3R5Z0/20241006_115624-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 goodies in the bazaar, Baghdad https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768346926-S77O1RGOC5GS2762A7QW/20240930_181638.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Bazaar after closing time, Baghdad https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768346862-KEMHSBVQ5XH9BR9X4D5A/20241001_103253-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 We visited Baghdad just days after Israel had assassinated Hezbollah leader Hassan Nasrallah. Iraq has a large Shi’a population, and so was in a period of mourning for Nasrallah during our first days there… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768350188-48JCERMAEMXMDFVWP3PE/20241001_122539-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Masgouf - Iraq’s national dish of grilled carp - spotted in Baghdad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768350906-9ULSJX7BJXV3IC22R17K/20241001_161338-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Cock, Baghdad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768370430-4PNCD9GESCAJJIIS0S3U/20241002_222810.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Night time party light Tuk-tuk driver, weaving us through the Baghdad traffic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768354642-CBGNRVZCCOFH58BG7795/20241001_161627.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Baghdad streets and traffic. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768471553-XR70PAPDCM36R3GOFWGX/20241018_145310.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Iraqis go all out for lunch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768370122-2S35DZCEW85FVOQD54KW/20241002_212350.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 A night time visit to a cafe on al-Mutannabi Street, Baghdad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733769119997-FHILZVA9VDJNDYNXEQAH/IMG-20241204-WA0010%281%29.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 The Ishtar Gate of Babylon! This one is a reconstruction; the original is in a museum in Berlin… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768357156-ER2C2ERVY5MMKCXJA53A/20241002_164834.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 The ancient city of Babylon, south of Baghdad. Part of the city remains in its original ruined state, while a large portion was somewhat tastelessly reconstructed by Saddam Hussein. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768358144-AYEGOOAZGKE6VI6U393X/20241002_165716-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Babylon Halls, Saddam’s reconstruction. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768361682-KBK1I07K376WQ8GSHI3K/20241002_171908-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 the walls of Babylon https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768362609-Z5KW9POIRF9NGF9BOAGK/20241002_173426.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 A view of Babylon, taken from a large hill (that was definitely another ancient mound of the city) on which Saddam Hussein had built a palace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768366186-T0PTE007RWU2CLM68H0T/20241002_174307.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 inside Saddam’s old Babylon Palace… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768366420-ZAZO0OL8TC2I22LM7VO1/20241002_174443-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Saddam’s version of history, on the ceiling of his palace at Babylon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733769119215-LRXDNHTHI6LXPYJYA4G4/IMG-20241204-WA0000.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 We made several Iraqi friends who showed us around Babylon and Saddam’s Palace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768375704-5S7PFTI6N9XEA0XN05E2/20241003_143717.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Approaching the ancient city of Uruk! Probably the first city-state in the ancient world… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768376200-KHVJUDJWB8WS8YF3Z7D2/20241003_143809.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 The Anu Ziggurat at Uruk https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768378357-RNCXNMA894M0W6SGIWBB/20241003_145131-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Probably the largest city in the world during its peak ~5100 years ago, the remains of this ancient city stretch off into the desert in all directions; the majority of it is completely unexcavated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768378970-FSW6BB6IJ7MJB6A55YF0/20241003_151329cropped.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Another view of the Anu Ziggurat, along with remains of some of the old excavation infrastructure left behind by German archaeologists in the early 1900s. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768383973-56EK77AMRVVR4747BODD/20241003_154648.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Admiring some of the glazed bricks at the ruins of Uruk https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768383713-L0GN5Q8UCUMZWFQMBCRC/20241003_174607.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 a pipeline and a bridge across the Euphrates River at Samawah, the modern city nearest to Uruk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768387859-L4RV3C93EW94EC1UWSUU/20241003_180523.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 This chap took us for a rip on the Euphrates in Samawah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768385977-PWNNS76XFKHJ7Y89VUR1/20241003_175140.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Our buddy Majd on the Euphrates, Samawah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768391562-6QXZB4951FM11RKFJ69M/20241004_122739.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 The great ziggurat of Ur (reconstructed by the Iraqis) at Ur! Another of the world’s first and largest cities during its heyday — it took over from Uruk as being the main Sumerian city. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768391474-33D1SGJF5USK6D7YCPQY/20241004_123115-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Great Ziggurat of Ur. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768395561-Z0S2679SDNQV8W21D9TU/20241004_132320-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Exploring the ruins of Ur. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768388060-HO8Y0QEMZTSDD5Y0Z1GS/20241003_222601-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Celebrations of “National Iraq Day” on October 3, in Nasiriyyah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768397205-W29PIXKV6S4OQMN2X44J/20241004_150657.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Tiled mosque in Nasiriyyah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768400955-T5167T997MGROFYZNS34/20241004_151126.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 an electrician’s nightmare, Nasiriyyah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768405433-BNT40GCVB7GMQ1JULCIK/20241004_152005.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Exploring Nasiriyyah with our friend Ahmed, a local photographer and environmental activist. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768403045-VRVMKW3YO43SGQBNA5W0/20241004_151550.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Nasiriyyah bazaar… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768407727-UWS00Y0X31UDW814L32P/20241004_175002.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 From Nasiriyyah we went to the Iraqi Marshes - once nearly dried up by Saddam - home of the Marsh Arabs. We stayed with a family in the town of Chibayish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768410457-ZB5ZD6Y6H6JP8CIUEGTA/20241004_175218.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 A reed Mudhif in Chibayyish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768415235-15J2L2ZXXZXOSM2K1HB1/20241004_175943.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 The inside of the Mudhif - a welcoming hall for visitors and guests, and place to dine and sleep. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768430060-OZ7SCJNCSEKQ3IA32M4P/20241005_072747.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Coffee with the head of the family in the mudhif. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768416427-U827TMZAMPHLGR4GFJP4/20241004_202350.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Getting ready for a night time marsh party with the shebab in Chibayyish. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768421014-JBTM05T4G8UTFFFWHV90/20241004_204742.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 marshland festivities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768422541-HNL9PBN3JRY270LA0OP1/20241005_061428.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 out in the marshes at sunrise. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768425746-PSKEWKLTMEZV4C1G50E5/20241005_061730.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Water buffalo in the marshes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768449297-EKO2KQHS4C6CC8DBWTJT/20241009_175536.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Mosul! One of my favourite cities in Iraq… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768469615-XAPY1K8IYS0542ZW6J46/b60e5c3e-73fa-402f-8278-04a0883d93a3.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Surf’s up in Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768443057-PZ708BFM1CZ2ZPDLNIL1/20241009_173927.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 coppersmith’s shop, Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768443363-DIWJ2USSQSOHCF40U3VD/20241009_174107.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 coppersmith’s shop, Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768457354-1GRP12QMP2ULSTK7VQX2/20241015_153721.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Mosul bazaar https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768450898-FRYTST2SF80LPTRXG1Z5/20241009_180054.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 soap, Mosul bazaar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768452698-5G82ZENTUEMZ3HRFLI65/20241009_183701-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 self portrait, Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768454567-B78E9HEP5EP6ORLA2XB1/20241013_174824-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Mosul skyline https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768457064-43XAUP7062HZDJMAQZSR/20241016_170440-crop.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 dust storm in Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768461498-AIU3J0EHYVBZ1MSJC7S2/20241018_112329.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Hanging out with Mosul kids https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768462448-L8ML25FV12A1QA0V0TB2/20241018_113120.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 kids in Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768466697-HZZAFTC5CN78GFRASN3F/20241018_134129.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Carpet shopping, Mosul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733768468185-0TRR4T4YRU9D388MT2A4/20241018_134715.jpg Travels - Iraq 2024 Hanging out with the Carpet King in Mosul. https://brynletham.com/journal/2024/12/8/erbil-and-surroundings-iraqi-kurdistan-september-2024 monthly 0.5 2024-12-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655163491-687AD99UZ6295Y7NWCQW/20240920_182546.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Downtown Erbil at dusk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655161302-44N2XRXRWM15AO7LG7GM/20240920_182146.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 The Erbil citadel stands in the city centre, atop an immense archaeological mound. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655159136-CEVV63X9II3Z0FZZPEMK/20240920_181153.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Downtown Erbil, after a rare rain shower. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655171439-CMBHYEE3WCPIC0J9J4SV/IMG-20240906-WA0017.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Oh hey! Blocking the view from Erbil citadel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655098680-96QJNWDZOCGEVFWLATNE/20240906_153022.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 The main souq (bazaar) is a maze of snaking alleys branching out from the citadel. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655104755-NOPPN8TL7U865NRP993O/20240906_153410.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Shiny things in the Erbil souq. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655095019-4QWB4SYPRCSGS1V9EZYG/20240906_133836.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Erbil souq https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655100531-WJPKIV0JSBQ3SJ78JZPY/20240906_153148.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Grape gum covered walnuts! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655171743-Y327E9LOZBERW4WH2MN6/20241010_172131.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 a leap of faith… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655092292-CYIEUSHB0AOW1B2OYYJC/20240905_192446.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 take a moment with this photo. there’s a lot going on. downtown Ainkawa, a Christian suburb of Erbil. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655130076-YUU7C0GO9J9SL1HETZS0/20240913_193320-crop2.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 alley cats, Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655123626-WHY1NZ1H3ZBISPAI54IP/20240913_191209.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Friday night tea on the streets https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655126041-X2ZXJ5KO4R14DP7FVFE5/20240913_192339-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 an old tea shop, where all the cool cats hang out in Erbil https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655172809-VQTS0YEB5113NHAXBLND/IMG-20240921-WA0011-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Alejandro challenges me to a match he cannot win https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655128564-A3J1S070EHQPFZEFHDBQ/20240913_193206.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 tea and TV https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655140316-D659N0I6MX3GHJA8P3VR/20240914_193521.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Syrian sweet in an Ainkawa alley! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655132300-93H425Z1KKRME6YN65UA/20240914_193412-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 baklava! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655134904-AA0R70E8HXNOPUFO8UVT/20240914_193420.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 more baklava! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655137163-Z4ZGX58EAFXTLDPPCM4Q/20240914_193427.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 even more baklava! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655113226-ZIQ7T3YPLUMLJG4SRHK5/20240913_094259.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Shanidar Cave — a cave where archaeologists have recovered world famous Neanderthal remains, including buried individuals of advanced age and with flower pollen associated with them: evidence that Neanderthals cared for each other throughout their lives and respectfully buried their dead … https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655113298-HJKLU1KEHI592EG6C3CT/20240913_095524.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Inside Shanidar Cave; the excavation area is in the foreground. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655116585-YC35FE9B5ZT7FPI3RL8J/20240913_122111+-+crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 we went to a town where people diverted river from a waterfall to flood down the streets … https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655118401-1GXFMAHEDF8BYADHL3W2/20240913_123101-+crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 … but the people in that town were apparently afraid of the rain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655122488-5A35ARI70CAS3I76VC4P/20240913_185016.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 rumaan wa batik https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655150242-V0O0QQX5SP34MV7M7EC8/20240920_143303.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Sennacherib, the King of the Neo Assyrians from 705-681 BCE, constructed an aqueduct to bring water from the mountains of northern Kurdistan over 50 km south to his capital at Nineveh - the world’s first known aqueduct. Here is a section of that aqueduct preserved at Jerwan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655156639-J7PALS0U4GUW6HW9RYPY/20240920_143642.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Inscriptions on Sennacherib’s aqueduct remind us that he is the king of the four corners of the earth, and that he built this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655141252-AI80JYWICROP1WJVRE5E/20240920_104550-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 The aqueduct begins at the Khinnis River - where Sennacherib had himself carved doing wondrous things. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655144224-WXVIQ8MO2G7GG2SIPFLD/20240920_104718-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Can you spot the unfinished Lamassu? At the Khinnes River at the start of Senacherib’s aqueduct. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655150077-0IBYAYFXJTWG8IKXKB9B/20240920_143540-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 powerlines in a lightning storm https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655154335-MZBIWUR5ELS2SNV6SGH6/20240920_145933-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Kurdish countryside https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655106172-G2IX81GA4H0O2YDUKXGM/20240908_130850.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Dolma! (vegetables stuffed with rice and meat…) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655164399-FQJW6Y42NX30AG8U7VEH/20240924_124757-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 lunch with one of our crew members at Surezha village - chicken and dolma https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733730531747-S0WXQN15EVULI5A6R61H/20240903_091433.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Fatteh for breakfast at a Syrian restaurant in Ainkawa https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655145584-C9HE2NTS5DLAZH5XXANM/20240920_133223.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Lunch on one of our road trips with our archaeology team’s mini bus drivers - Muntaher and his son Muhammad https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655170069-TZ1UNH9PGXHEIQLEBZEK/20240924_141149.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 how archaeology sites are formed in Iraq… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733655166341-G5VL5X3CMGUAY59AG0SF/20240924_174016-crop.jpg Travels - Erbil and surroundings: Iraqi Kurdistan, 2024 Erbil Plain on fire https://brynletham.com/journal/2023/11/22/jordan-2022 monthly 0.5 2023-11-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722797707-ATYIJGKI8H4GQ8XADNBL/20220625_192140.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Jordan Plateau at sunrise https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722865989-5CHXPFDUQDOCRX0I0RQ1/20220626_093942.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 sunset over Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723344098-GG82EV23DQ3H7R74OMNO/20220710_200142.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 downtown Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723010447-GYD9F4C6SIC4QAOBM9TR/20220702_190201.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Ira and Ted, waiting for shawarma in Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723011442-FMX3M7WQ5MGOIAS3MRXU/20220702_192829.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 sunset in Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723038653-VUG4O5D1PDR333G7VPQW/20220703_201101.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723075627-511NYEF8NV619TWLFOFF/20220704_210910.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723087041-V54FYNL6O821QO7VTOYD/20220704_211037.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723110233-7V7JQIR5SXLUL12LECSS/20220704_211341.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723119320-4ULMJSHHULJLG2URAUHZ/20220704_211614.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 birds on a wire, Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723057542-FZN0KL3Y5CSKZ6AZ3JRY/20220703_201656.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722820647-84UY8FUEBGDZARP4BVTH/20220626_093902.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 sunset from our rooftop, Deir Abu Said https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722816013-COJQKZO78MBS740F7N7C/20220625_205713.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 archaeological work starts early in the morning —- 5 AM hike into Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723358157-AHSH07FY455RM1VVZMTD/20220711_054652.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722891044-979FM504A2YYD1ISN77M/20220627_061905.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 our excavation area, Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723323052-N3WCA73WUQ8E2PUFT59T/20220710_122416.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 sitting in the shade with Alaa and Ibrahim, hiding from the heat of Wadi Quseyba. Ibrahim (on the right) sadly passed away this month — he was a passionate worker with an outrageous sense of humor that raised all of our morale. Rest in peace, Ibrahim. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723465437-FYWHHRPKGAKD9DKWMO42/IMG_1370.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Jordanian crew mounting a boulder in Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723157065-PY5T4E3QA9Y2YCPCPLR6/20220705_093400.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 visitors to our excavations, Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722897296-2FXIASID9USWF5FWAEKJ/20220629_110850.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 excavations at Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723312256-336VLPJ4GNYSMTQV58AN/20220709_072301.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 excavations at Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723370776-1W5DS7XJ6EVAUBQYZL1S/20220711_092223.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 excavations at Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723446004-2P4S3F6XAGQVJUT1XU3F/20220711_120412b.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 a handful of perplexed archaeologists… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723142015-WPJ33ZCB7ST2C1YQXVA4/20220706_072837.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 what’s this we’ve found?! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723189504-220ALF9MV7OC6UWCCXVU/20220706_073205.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723210666-TU9X4M4GTA3LW8ZMEP55/20220706_162453.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723233599-HIKCQEQ1TQ8RUC6MO74S/20220707_083348.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723030219-XU7UNSDO8ECXJ07ZRWGT/20220703_175334.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723207281-MOQ19NI5DO4W8I53W5MS/20220706_080854.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Rasha excavates a stone wall at Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723407860-O2DCA46RTNUNPQQAB8R4/20220711_092340.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 excavations at Wadi Quseyba https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723410756-SBQAQNYP4EFJ8VR8QRS1/20220711_114446.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 a fragment of ‘Yarmoukian style’ pottery — early pottery local to the region, discernable by its distinctive ‘herring-bone’ pattern. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723447762-B99SVRMIKGOXDJLQ1T6M/20220711_120337.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 stay hydrated https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722909452-1TNQ4UFSMXIF5OIK5HAB/20220630_193002.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 the streets of Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722960714-BZG468GFOGEOVYRFS2JG/20220630_193051.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 stairway, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723223195-901RI09IBYD0LWIF6BSX/20220707_190323b.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 the Greats, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722960534-PGDP5N0ZFIFP5785E1CQ/20220701_101323.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 coffee, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722988571-A3A3DDAR4YPGA2GCLXL6/20220701_105301.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 Rasha and Ahmed at breakfast, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722990708-YOKQLBCF47Q53FTNJG58/20220701_105250.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 breakfast, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700722935057-PHW8F5ZSTTUD5GZLDRS1/20220630_195222.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 dinner, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723245811-BUVX44FYOX5SSBA0V4GV/20220708_150147b.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 streets of Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723265299-X68JNZEV3IGML4D6VGZD/20220708_155725b.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 King Hussein Moqsue, Amman https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1700723268019-CWKE6XX4VJJOE9RD0L8L/20220708_152732.jpg Travels - Jordan 2022 murals, Amman https://brynletham.com/journal/2019/4/12/sudan-2017 monthly 0.5 2019-11-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129561780-FXBMPAN6RI05KJRAXPCV/Sudan19.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Welcome to Khartoum, thriving and throbbing hub of Sudan. Parking lot at the entrance to Souq Omdurman, one of the largest bazaars in northern Africa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555133214280-2AL1ZFZ3YQEEVDYY27VF/Sudan42.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Ian in the Khartoum hustle and bustle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129574065-LZ74YG7239TISXJOD8YB/Sudan20.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Donkey chillin’, Souq Omdurman, Khartoum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129518650-1KVJV0FM6NPS6FZ6KSHX/Sudan10.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Ian wandering the side streets of Khartoum, beside causeways leading into the Nile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128911664-8OINZ8JASL0GOAXNU99O/20171204_154702.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Coffee ladies! The lifeblood of all Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128947958-SC18AVIWR987E5U4TW0Q/20171207_093855.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Qahweh wa bokhur wa sukar kteeeeeeer. The next best thing to a cold beer in Sudan (which is not readily available). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129294736-LBF6NUXDSTUEKVVLWKJH/PC033152.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 A pointless exercise, in one of the hottest countries on the planet. Khartoum’s downtown core. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555133218197-T61MHWHTOK9XFE387Q0D/Sudan44.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Khartoum skyline (no joke). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129569093-Z3TRFDAN43WQFC70X8DK/Sudan21.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sunset and Khartoum skyline. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129320820-0GKUD5U2DES8HDTQVJ81/PC043191.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Crossing the Nile, Khartoum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129533991-35IBND4NO57FNW9BZQQH/Sudan11.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Eating Bush (a slurry of fava beans and ripped up bread, usually mixed with diced tomatoes, onions, and garlic, eggs, cheese, sometimes canned tuna fish, and topped off with a deadly peanut hot sauce — named after George Bush senior, after he first imposed crippling sanctions on Sudan in the 1990s that caused food shortages) with architecture student friends in Khartoum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128930265-N2H4NGUA9PJJ0XND0LB1/20171206_190634.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Chicken and rice, washed down with fresh mango juice and non-alcoholic strawberry flavoured beer. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129376217-JMJMN0VSNO76Q7SOP2AB/PC063298.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 From Khartoum we traveled north along the Nile to Shendi. Our view of Shendi from the Funduk Mecca balcony. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129466460-DCI01N11990V31LHDYBD/Sudan01.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 The souq in Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129523726-QJ5E2CMZJDW4A6GWB4BY/Sudan12.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sunset over Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129579676-JAS5SJQFO9IO4E3NJO74/Sudan22.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Shendi streets at sunset. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129529563-7LOVAC43GJQJU5U4PXYA/Sudan13.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sunset street cleanup in the Shendi souq. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129537412-27PR6M17J1N2QHNLTCP9/Sudan14.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Birds on a wire, over the Nile, Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129595760-TG400OCQ6OADJ0ARHDMZ/Sudan23.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Chillin’ with the dudes in Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129322005-ZRE4UF0ZVI4PTV4TQQ61/PC053218.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Shendi shisha cafe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129630562-YWB13KK51EJLOA3MMOIT/Sudan27.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Streets in Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129348373-FQWKVYCC1B8L8OBAOHAO/PC063223.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 In Shendi we met a dude named Priest, who introduced us to a dude name Roba (Quarter), who took us out into the desert to look for archaeological sites. These were our wheels. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129593232-CFAOEIVDNH8XJT7GJFI7/Sudan24.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Musawarrat as-Sufra, kilometers off road into the desert, but still manned by a caretaker waiting for people to swing by. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129351092-OHK5TXWZ9AU070V3DJIH/PC063225.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Inside the Apadamek Temple, Musawarrat es-Sufra. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128909163-PR0XSBZDKXR5DBEDF21D/20171206_150803.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Temple of the Rams, Naqa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129613993-5Z55TRQAJQWEMBVVTIKZ/Sudan25.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Inside the Ram Temple, Naqa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128934228-7TC42W31ZGH0UPH2ZVEJ/20171206_162008.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Kiosk with Roman, Egyptian, and Kushite architectural influences blended together, Naqa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129623239-4YUZ12F70L9Y8TSAVYZV/Sudan26.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Kushite relief on Apadamek Temple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128946944-MJAIM357PC2X97IR9LMN/20171207_125510.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sudan fun fact (and point of extreme national pride): there are more pyramids in Sudan than in all of Egypt. Get ready for lots of pictures of pyramids. This is Meroe, north of Shendi. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129039917-JZ4O4AWVRZS6NT4XTJGE/20171207_133717.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 The tops of the Pyramids of Meroe were knocked off by some Italian jackass looking for gold in the 1800s. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128978199-HW9KBKRXSMWRZ7V957Z2/20171207_131003.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Pyramids of Meroe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129376587-ROYLW493MTGIGFEFQU6F/PC073366.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Pyramids, pyramids, pyramids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129539356-J6C3NH1ZLTTL0NOJU08N/Sudan15.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Pyramid graffiti, Meroe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555128968204-TT86FDV4O2R8U41469UG/20171207_132233.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Roba did not give a fu— about pyramids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129401638-ULA3THW7T6AMPI4DFBQW/PC073384.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 But pyramids make you look cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129627039-UZZQM8PV7CDPNTQHQKTM/Sudan28.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Trippy Pyramids of Meroe. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129474622-8PMJ6NMUJPK0NBOXWBQ7/Sudan04.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Next stop: Karima, further up the Nile and hub for checking out some seriously neat spots. These are the minibuses that got us around. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129636509-LVAK2YQL1UB0VBREYVQ0/Sudan29.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 This guy is making pottery literally the same way as people have been making pottery in the region for 5000 years on the banks of the Nile, Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129060908-L8JBOPMCFSJ1X9KBNVXV/20171208_134223.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A view of Karima from a jebel (mountain). Jebel Barkal is visible in the distance. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129647549-F5SPLX22477EU18584SO/Sudan30.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Wandering past the graves, Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129116471-XQA56QZJ2XGC8ZT37RG3/20171208_180504.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 View east from Jebel Barkal, a holy mountain for both the ancient Kushites and Pharaohnic Egyptians viewed as the seat of the God Amun: Temple of Amun in the foreground, Karima to the left (north), and the mighty River Nile, straight across the top. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129473607-1F89S7T2LCZE4751IH57/Sudan03.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Ian perched on the edge of Jebel Barkal, Temple of Amun below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129099671-PNU39D6AMWRH4C2FXST7/20171208_180611.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sunset over Jebel Barkal, Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129651210-48DFT0L8Z6083Q6LMXZ7/Sudan31.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 When your world gets turned upside down, Jebel Barkal, Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129459495-1A7NLW1CY1HCF5ZDR9TR/Sudan02.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Pyramids near to Jebel Barkal, Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129665141-TNMRCCRMQI6WCPG02QD2/Sudan32.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A grave in the middle of the desert, near(ish) to Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129666628-MCI0F05XTBP95LK7SA2E/Sudan33.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A mosque on the banks of the Nile across from Karima. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129402392-BBUJE704I84TEIXDVIWW/PC093558.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Taking a well needed desert lounge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129195111-L2BMRIPU4CUN7HJUQVCZ/20171209_163352.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Did you think I was done with pictures of pyramids? These are the Pyramids of Nuri, northeast from Karima, across the Nile. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129120476-2AUTYQG0KY2M9BOVBC9X/20171209_163747_1.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Pyramids of Nuri. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129428046-1UL793FBR3SAN0H67G4A/PC103571.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 A typical scene on a Sudanese long distance bus, where keeping cool is the name of the game. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129426886-M8F953SNBJ3V32D8VD3Y/PC103570.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 A sandstorm and a vehicle accident brought us to a standstill somewhere between the cities of Atbara and Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555133208738-2XY0GNC4PU5B55V83S3L/Sudan43.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Some serious lounging to watch some Red Sea commerce in Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129218848-CYPTCBOESE0DKU97Z6ET/20171212_130332.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 The colonnaded architecture of the souq in Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129490514-ODWH0PIWTJCWJP9388AD/Sudan07.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Street meat BBQ, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129454397-K5Q3Q76PATVVMU3FEHM4/PC103572.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Our colourful room in Funduk Rihan, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129480820-8OOV2CLUQX9CMM7FWR66/Sudan05.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A man sets a net among some ship wrecks, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129144358-LTJGUWSQC4Q1LMUBOE1Q/20171211_122116.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Fish Market, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129548791-TL9L2M6NMIOQFC70CK5B/Sudan16.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Pier, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129516608-R2MPQQEBWUDPHX4OO6LO/Sudan06.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Fishing vessels, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129227661-JFRPPWHURJPIUWRGSIT1/20171212_143711.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Trying to figure out how we got here, in the most philosophical sense possible, Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129548453-XLZLV9YQZ8JJHJN653OY/Sudan17.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Suakin, Sudan’s old Red Sea port during the British Colonial period, before being moved to Port Sudan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129167892-6GSBQ515UJKZ226E2UFQ/20171211_140242.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Door! Suakin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129211505-8MRR00SON8P59SJ0MCD1/20171211_160957.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Boats new and old, Suakin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129189637-CFQO4XPDDP2YLKABE9XW/20171211_160536.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 al-balawi — The Disaster. My brother Eric and I named our yellow canoe the same thing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129716966-ALR2JLW8AX46YUWDXC3Z/Sudan38.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Old colonial weaponry for protecting the port city of Suakin back in the day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129684230-NNSO4IJ5IHWJJUGJ069A/Sudan34.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A ruined gate, Suakin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129695331-9ZSLP4LZ4K1UJG7JC8NS/Sudan35.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Ruins of a port's heyday, Suakin Island. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129699772-42FE8MACR3LKGPK52XTA/Sudan36.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Sadly, Suakin’s urban area has been reduced to an impoverished shanty town with the move to Port Sudan. It’s still full of some great characters though. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129715774-0RZ5JFJFQ5N45Z4WCJ0L/Sudan37.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Beautiful boats in Suakin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129235458-KL2LVOF2RWDLG4ZMYGFS/20171213_164531.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 From the Red Sea coast we traveled to Kassala, where the distinctive Taka Mountains loom over the city… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129264366-6KD1HR7SV0VT4VEFL74H/20171214_162819.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Fruit and vegetable market, Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129734560-75ZA2MOV323EV11IBT5O/Sudan40.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Coffee lounge land in the shadow to the Taka Mountains, Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129555562-9Z2M741MKRIV5U9B2YG0/Sudan18.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 The main souq in Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129294732-QW7Q60QGO3UH8JGR5REK/20171213_175233.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Late afternoon views of Kassala from the Taka Mountains, baboons in the foreground. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129244599-GTGR0MPBOO0YYWBAXHFT/20171213_174325.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Some fearless baboons on the Taka Mountains. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129497127-M2RV6XCEOOQX48TX8DZZ/Sudan08.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 A baboon brigade making sure we don't come back, Taka Mountains, Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129727302-XJWCISGYM25MHE7PUGDT/Sudan39.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 The Khatmiyah Mosque, Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129456091-JUGWRUWQ43A5YRF4Z7OX/PC143649.JPG Travels - Sudan 2017 Inside the courtyard of the Khatmiyah Mosque, Kassala. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129737531-8QJMXSYPJXNYZZ4X7ANB/Sudan41.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Back in Omdurman, Khartoum, we catch a soufi dhikr (ceremony of chanting, dancing, and trance to focus on one’s connection to God) in the Hamad el-Nil cemetery. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1555129503723-EPFV52FNTW3ZNXE0BHLX/Sudan09.jpg Travels - Sudan 2017 Dervishes spin and jump and dance in the middle of the dhikr. https://brynletham.com/journal/2018/11/25/baku-to-gori-2017 monthly 0.5 2018-11-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168788832-YVWUUE6KP0UX988GER4C/Azerbaijan02.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 Sven and Clautilde, fellow passengers on the Fikret Emirov, exploring Baku with me. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168915750-QHYYCM730YACPLBCGF3J/PB192869.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168777927-LADNULT1HSNRK47RFJ3J/Azerbaijan01.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168944384-B09VAUVHAI4S4C4IXS18/PB202874.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168771146-3NXLIAZ2NNUE6K6RJUL7/20171120_160621.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168775703-6OL623EBWG8RJXAND0SP/20171120_144345.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168788433-NRPUWV4ZVJYQLFF02UXF/Azerbaijan03.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168828645-X7CEU1ARE82VTX5QNQSA/Azerbaijan08.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168917586-CXE87D91COOPERTOW4CG/Azerbaijan14.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168960027-C36U0H8N5AC6TUEYUJRX/PB212952.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168853242-83ERGI86AUOTNAD8HZQ2/Azerbaijan11.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168808318-CMDW2R75OH8E17QPOW7T/Azerbaijan04.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168873593-6APEBT8DPLXUNTY5OBJ8/Azerbaijan12.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168871415-I6EBGP0IXNYQMZSKAF7P/Azerbaijan13.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168801295-07YMR8JR4JHCV880NHOX/Azerbaijan06.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168945981-H64Q8X2CFJZM66KJZQCR/PB212944.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168810867-5G7M5I5WKH4JDFK0M60C/Azerbaijan07.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168847385-VX8U4NRO6KV7M0SHS48B/Azerbaijan10.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543168830764-SS8DT883CDE1PBVRWMRM/Azerbaijan09.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169037680-5ZBPMV2HI8KSH700FG31/Georgia02.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169038240-R7IN15GHBY4IW8X3DQL7/Georgia03.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169065211-P1Z3K44UA2RAW252SVBK/Georgia04.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169197468-V435ZQKLSZEDOJQTINCV/PB233024.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169024702-X1M7CNN630HRFXH9WZRR/20171123_203636.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169028609-7NCJN116TDSXY3U9RCM3/Georgia01.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169026288-ND7XMRGKJ4XW4QF4J4G9/20171201_171345.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169045959-Q84HW25R9XFWOGV5K2JK/Georgia06.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169072425-HXUDN3ETQDY1BR5AFP83/Georgia07.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169131269-0LGZT789746AMWKMVJK5/PB283094.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169073500-K97M5J42HBMBTX5FGSP3/Georgia08.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169147274-KCYQRH0ILEB4C4AZ0122/PB283097.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169095969-K5GQMAHG1HPZ13EC06WH/Georgia11.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169089850-OGY957SA7D882C9J15O7/Georgia09.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169122457-QA2FXD5MN63I8YTF341M/PB253041.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169150654-FQGMJ4TE21K3PE5SQDVJ/PC013138.JPG Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543169088645-NO9H7OBHBIQC7LY4D4Z4/Georgia10.jpg Travels - Baku to Gori, 2017 https://brynletham.com/journal/2018/9/9/almaty-to-baku-2017 monthly 0.5 2019-04-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478707463-TJKOYZH5AAULSSVKP15A/PB132708.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Skyline of Almaty, the old capital of Kazakhstan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478647436-FIQ87514X57J7Y4GLV8B/PB112693.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Soviet era architectural wonders, Almaty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478662837-6MZ9RDZ2SV6SPT9R1B1D/PB122702.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 I took this photo in 2008 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=584127891071&set=a.584127521811.2238651.21003273&type=3&theater), so I had to take it again in 2017. Almaty II train station, Almaty. All aboard for the westbound train to Mangyshlak! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478723668-QZW3TP4C1PSYRIL98OGL/PB132713.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 From Almaty to Aktau/Mangyshlak on the Caspian Sea was a 72 hour journey across the Kazakh steppe. The journey was accompanied by our car lady, in the foreground on the left, who was indeed rather surly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478776723-00AVR457QNNTXK0B7A56/PB142731.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Sharing my 4 bed cabin were Otkir, Elmira, and Grandma, all heading to Mangistau. Grandma ran the show. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478488191-7GRSVE8ZWLUL4EH6D7SH/20171115_102452.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 A train station pit stop en route to the steppe… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478488285-MLW8HUZZDAAGY44HV0B0/20171115_112351.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478765590-PDXNVPZX4FHYKNPS18J3/PB132718.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 At one point we stopped and inexplicably loaded the entire train with jugs of fruit jam, which were then stored in secret compartments under the hallway carpets. When I took this photo I was yelled at by the car lady to stop, who informed me that this was contraband. Apparently we were in the business of jam smuggling. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478566576-SJZZSYBBV2KWHNY2OHGH/kaz03.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Grandma scans the steppe over tea... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478532941-RXD8UAY5F7706J0EHVQI/kaz02.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Egad! Camels! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478570093-TB1FE9D4O7I34QPDCS4L/kaz04.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 With such tight quarters and such flat terrain for days, a lot of tea was consumed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478533506-CIMBV6QQ58SKJW9WWZSM/kaz01.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Loitering at a station in western Kazakhstan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478593287-T2U07S360O79NDO6P5GX/kaz05.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 At the farthest end of the train line: Aktau, Kazakhstan's gorgeous Caspian Sea port and mega holiday destination for beach lovers around the world. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478516458-A2M988OC0N49FKT6DX3U/20171116_135658.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Hydrocarbons flowing to and from Aktau. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478615192-UEOB5IN75TGDQVNH713J/kaz06.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Wandering Aktau's blissful beaches while waiting for a shipping boat to cross to Azerbaijan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478822061-TMUZGYUXFM6FSNVAXILR/PB162763.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Just before midnight I was called to come to the port for a ship that was sailing to Baku. After about 4 hours of sitting around and then passing through customs we were let loose onto the docks to find our boat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478828620-5Z1ZWV2NOH0VE50O546E/PB162770.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 The Bestekar Fikret Emirov ---- the Azeri ship that would carry us from Kazakhstan to Azerbaijan across the Caspian Sea. It had just arrived at port that night and had to unload everything before we could board. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478877250-7WCUHNZ83P18HQF3P41P/PB162773.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 The ship was for transport trucks carrying goods from China and Central Asia to the Caucasus, Turkey, and beyond, but along with that were myself and several cyclists crossing Eurasia. We had to wait for several hours on the dock for the boat to unload before we could board, so we made ourselves comfortable. Most brilliant of all, Serafin from Spain had a small coffee machine that helped us stay warm and awake until we were finally shown aboard around 5 AM. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478883809-HMJQVZFPE2DXEFN6CFJT/PB162776.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Loading deck, Bestekar Fikret Emirov. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479172335-7PE9XQFYJ6OSF389V3HJ/PB182843.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 We were shown to a cabin below deck, where life was good. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479150241-7HVP8L2BJ9ANBB4JUP8I/PB182842.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Sera and Marlene, from Spain and Germany, respectively, had been cycling across Asia for over a year and visiting national parks to interview, learn, and teach about nature preservation around the world. We shared a great time aboard the ship and became good companions rather quickly. This is our cabin on the boat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478928673-DPG3R05D0BVIH2M4LHJF/PB162786.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 The middle of the Caspian, no land in sight. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478937375-GPQ29AX7QMNMWCFLIO0P/PB162791.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Titanic scene atop the ship. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478982763-C2D8XPY9BEN1491OM4W6/PB172799.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 It turned out we were pretty much free to wander where we wanted while aboard, so we checked out the heavy machinery in the engine room. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478988606-7DTMH2W1OSDCKMA7RU6Q/PB172804.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Everyone spent most of the time in the salon, where truck drivers passed the time eating, drinking, and watching spectacularly violent Russian movies, all monitored by the former Dictato-ahem-President of Azerbaijan, Heydar Aliev. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479038267-M5U0GNWDE84RKR0C0I0M/PB172807.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 It did not take long for me, Sera, Marlene, and the other two travelers aboard the boat, Clautilde (France) and Sven (Germany) to befriend some of the truck drivers, who were keen to engage in a good old fashioned vodka-pickle-bread session. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479090938-6CPL76D08O2FLOC6GIRD/PB172815.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Partying with Sven and my Azeri man Ali. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479042220-JZSDIB2Q67D6AHWWBTIA/PB172812.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 After finishing the vodka on the table, Ali insisted we go below deck to his truck to get more vodka and some canned fish. But before we went back to the salon he insisted that we all sit in his truck. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479097025-F86WEE96VOBH74C5MX9M/PB172822.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 The following morning after the vodka mayhem we awoke to a serene scene - we were anchored in Baku Harbour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536479143569-SICIOVCM0U8FCOPSOAZS/PB172823.JPG Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 Baku skyline over the trucks aboard Bestekar Fikret Emirov. We had to stay anchored in the harbour nearly 24 hours before we were able to dock at port and unload - which of course occurred at 4 AM. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536478507592-75LDEQ8B3Z7UXJJ23LTZ/bak01.jpg Travels - Almaty to Baku 2017 We'd made it to Baku, Azerbaijan - the city with an identity crisis - and the city where I'd had an identity crisis of my own and turned back from crossing the Caspian 6 years before. This time, I'd done it, and couldn't have been happier. https://brynletham.com/journal/2018/9/8/tajikistan-2017 monthly 0.5 2019-02-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465442335-74J3AY0I85U7HB5RENAQ/tj10.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Hazy hills entering the Sughd Province, northwest Tajikistan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465295434-WFMMO19C7SOZWAEZME9B/tj01.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Welcome to Khujand, once called Leninobad and famous for the largest statue of Lenin in the world; now watched over by the ever vigilant Ismoil Somoni! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464696376-L1CEF4DRF877RMN4YKNM/PB012440.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Pigeons paying reverence to the dead, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464570270-ZFOOCWEW4YYI9S5XPEJH/PB012402.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Panjshanbe Square at sundown - Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465475269-SY7HGUUEJANGB21OCGX6/tj11.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Great Mosque, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464629166-5O8Z8HBU1D54G09W76FX/PB012425.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Getting spicy at Panjshanbe Bazaar, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464689217-NCU1ICK47765LYVITKVV/PB012433.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Panjshanbe Bazaar, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464748506-DGJ36BAK3TL6VSB04GQ2/PB022453.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Some serious fishing on the Syr Darya River, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464755691-1QM19JN8FCJPV5KCG9RP/PB022455.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 The largest statue of Lenin in the world (22 glorious meters) now hangs out in a dilapidated sports park on the edge of town - Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464805318-57QLV869OQOUP1T9TAJF/PB022470.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Soviet-era architectural wonders, Khujand. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464811375-MD0RI1KY4XSO4DD0K0IN/PB022474.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Vodka, shashlyk, and pickles with my Khujand party bros. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464866312-1AEWXJLXP47FYPJIVN4W/PB032481.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Bazaar in Istaravshan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465312926-18JVNN3KADR6DFN67IAT/tj02.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 An baker in Istaravshan with his big oven. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464862630-8L7OBK8KYXJFUCIX2KRF/PB032477.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 BIG LOAVES! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464919777-UJ3528GN446X33RNJP15/PB032490.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Cotton candy lady, Istaravshan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464980995-FOU6GUVIE2WSN8UY91ML/PB032524.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 I made a young friend in Istaravshan named Amriddin, who literally took me everywhere around town. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464980524-5NVWW9OEP8IU5Z6EZKBN/PB032521.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 The blue dome gets two photos, just because. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464922926-X7I77PEAN6VRXADKD5DM/PB032506.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Mosque repairs in Istaravshan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465461944-C8Q7CGFGNUEZ3FW0H95V/tj09.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Sarytag - near Iskanderkul in the Fan Mountains, an excellent home base for trekking. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465369283-F30CJ0CSQIJPME63CUG1/tj05.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Sarytag lovers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465426289-0SPNOOXM7MYLZB2C54LM/tj07.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Big blue truck, Sarytag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465143671-7EY9Y5J8YLS5TRRL0OPI/PB082618.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Goooood livin' - shepherd's home in the valleys around Sarytag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465393141-5NB0WUTGPRCW1WPNS3BY/tj06.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Mountain shack on Iskander's Hat, above Sarytag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465348893-U1XI0GDRDEGGS9408EHL/tj04.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 The descent from Iskander's Hat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536464635947-XHEWE83D1BIKQP3PI75I/20171108_141449.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 View from Iskander's Hat, down towards Sarytag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465087739-BCUMUXNTA7JOUSRJMNAA/PB082588.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465149592-2XCE0EPACWW8ECOM4ZXQ/PB092625.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Some sort of vegetarian bush lunch. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465207906-A0AV0RRH1771QKMT2796/PB092627.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Peak-a-boo! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465209352-3O338RU08UGTL6G2R4TF/PB092638.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Fan Mountains. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465429973-WYNAZPF86ZCSCNPLS0T6/tj08.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Shepherd's houses, Sarytag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465088831-54KWLE8YUTXWUYZDW8R6/PB062550.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Dushanbe - the capital city who's name literally means Monday - AKA 'The Big Dushe'. Also, home of the world's largest tea house. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465034675-LHISQ3FVH30TCG810B6R/PB052538.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Interior of the new National Museum in Dushanbe, where a large amount of space was constructed that needed to be filled. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465034069-FVKS5FI6KNI7FAQPRVIF/PB062548.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Dushanbe renovations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465266274-W9JMHHHHSATIUJ305ILP/PB102670.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 We were lucky enough to catch Iranian musical wonder and popular heart throb Rizal Mohammadi playing with a banmd of world class Tajik musicians for a helluva Persian-Disco-Funk dance party on our last night in Dushanbe. But first act to warm up: Awkward Dancers! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465267278-EB3TQVM8P7ONFRA45669/PB102688.JPG Travels - Tajikistan 2017 Rizal croons his way through a sweaty set in front of Dushanbe's wealthy who's who's. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536465326411-IGTWLR1XX8O3WEGVBS61/tj03.jpg Travels - Tajikistan 2017 The Big Somoni signals us onward, while security watches over, Dushanbe. https://brynletham.com/journal/2018/9/7/kyrgyzstan-2018 monthly 0.5 2018-11-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386613510-VCYJIPOKMC8J7DRDI86H/PA202011.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 A bajillion shiny lights draped over Ala-Too Square, Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386532666-UNI99AF8IEFZ027C3XSA/kg01.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Osh Bazaar (in Bishkek, not Osh) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386600054-KWZZ53L4KORVI2VFCTCF/PA191989.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 following some steamy lines, Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386672755-Y4KOPS6O4PMO602KU0U1/PA232099.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Apartment blocks from the good ol' days, Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386444569-2DQCRSS3OLCJYKQW88XI/20171018_135805.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 He may be relagated to behind the main square today, but he's still casting his net wide. Lenin in Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386604780-4GPSO3A1WD94BEI0WTI4/PA201997.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Bishkek Opera House, anticipating an evening of Aida. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386657344-GNCJJUZJ8FRJT1U7YZVC/PA222095.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Kyrgyzstan puts in its two cents with regards to American politics via its cuisine... https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386677367-KIDMNOV4UH12GOK34AAO/PA232100.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 .... aaaaand down the street, Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386524948-OKH7GFYE5HLV0Q1Q3AFB/IMG_3230.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 My first lecture as a Dr. --- explaining glaciation, sea level change, and the peopling of North America at Manas University, Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386633644-XS20FJ4YDOQKYD82K6EC/PA212055.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 A bridge over crystal waters, can't-remember-the-name-of-the-canyon, near Bishkek. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386653184-9BW2SMQBBCWASSPX5A0C/PA222090.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Kok Moynuk Canyons. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386636582-J5SHG7WJ3MTZ0G26GAP8/PA212085.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Wall of erosion, Kok Moynuk. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386694048-H1PH0WAVCU7T9BCHN9U0/PA242119.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 A dusty sunset near Toktugul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386695248-G3J04W028DDDUQV2FAF0/PA242131.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 These guys were really drunk, Toktugul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386733332-8T32ERUVLFZ2ZFKFLRFI/PA252162.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Remains of a Kyrgyz bush party - maybe left behind by the dudes in the previous photo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386712879-X215OB474J0BWNE409K6/PA252153.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Toktugul Reservoir - real good swimming. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386714164-K80RHKHCHIHG2SLTVHI1/PA252159.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Hills near Toktugul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386733337-7DUUMAM9LI13XZT2JJDO/PA252167.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Cemeteries, near Toktugul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386754055-5LD4E3PH0D65TRCNUQ5H/PA252175.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 English students teaching me how to take a good photo, Toktugul. (L-O-V-E). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386546297-PV2CUYG05BKK9FWFLVZZ/kg02.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Sharing the playing field, Toktugul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386753949-B5PZE098P0BGZDKN41FL/PA252184.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Sunset Rides, Toktugul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386559116-FOMJLNSVM9HZLM15VIVS/kg03.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Hustle and bustle, Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386773756-NFOEUITJC5UZRQICRMZN/PA262196.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 A little less hustle and bustle, Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386774024-AXEYR187MY8AS174YINE/PA262205.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 The main reason I never wanted to leave Arslanbob - my morning view. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386793854-B8EZOGLTHSAWRZXKTLT2/PA262223.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Dilapidated love park, Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386814930-D9O11CK88QBRHTSX3BXK/PA272282.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Dilapidated fun park, Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386520455-BH6Y7ZWGC2JY8Q8FAGJJ/20171027_125242.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Big views over Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386520929-UQDJLR9NDRWNOORIPIXF/20171027_115619.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Mountains above Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386794604-4JT5QIEBHO7BSNX2ZE4I/PA262240.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Contemplating the largest walnut forest in the world, Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386814282-E98V007L9E58QC504877/PA272274.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Mountain roads. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386568437-TTJYMGVH0CLVC365ZQHU/kg04.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Tree of life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386850502-7LFZL7GGJSZ0INTNVKZP/PA282326.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Oh, hey there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386835479-4T3FGMSP6S9HZSHQ2VKX/PA282295.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Arslanbob bridge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386853516-KQJ9HPPZIDFES8SESC2R/PA282334.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Arslanbob traffic jam. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386834747-ENGPAU8X6AI8WPD5XSO3/PA272290.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 The best plov I have ever eaten. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386456284-SMHBHW65CNYZIY32OF2V/20171023_114752.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Manty - Kyrgyz dumplings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386872955-GODQD32CFAQKT6OISISU/PA292339.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Watching nature documentaries in an Arslanbob Chaikhana (tea house). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386872960-AOP5CSYKAD8GK56K33GJ/PA292343.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Booty shakin' at an Uzbek wedding in Arslanbob. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386893794-B7RU1WYUYD0L81FPJOGJ/PA292356.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 The spectacularly thrilled groom and his brothers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386893365-5M6A2T66TU6B76N70VGQ/PA292353.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Wedding kids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386913617-W1O290JXY0583YQI36ST/PA302368.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Osh welcomes you! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386913507-90N4INL8H4AV61I0G61J/PA312370.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Cake section, Osh bazaar (in Osh, not Bishkek). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386581485-MT342435F1T2233YOQUO/kg06.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 A few odds and ends in the Osh bazaar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386449306-DXPPVOS4V6B6ZCAAS4RC/20171018_163322.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Just offal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386924519-CAAKFB6E3M5KRYMLVFD6/PA312375.JPG Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Meat dude, waiting for some business, Osh bazaar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386586244-HX31CXNPQUAWT2MBUM5P/kg08.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 One for the vegetarians, Osh bazaar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386570777-5U3ZYZPBESR8YRFIKT0Y/kg05.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Old cats playing chess into the wee hours of the night in Osh. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536386552052-YNA7JYYO6PO4UVK6CAGY/20171031_175304.jpg Travels - Kyrgyzstan 2017 Sunset over Osh. https://brynletham.com/journal/category/travels monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Azerbaijan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Sudan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Georgia monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Central+Asia monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Kazakhstan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Kyrgyzstan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/category/Tajikistan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/journal/tag/Sudan monthly 0.5 https://brynletham.com/diatom daily 0.75 2020-12-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417149585-0PFWBTGY95UG0XJJQ1WD/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-102+Coscinodiscus+cf.+radiatus+and+Diploneis+sp.+cf.+subcincta.jpg Diatoms - Coscinodiscus radiatus and Diploneis cf. subcincta Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. C. radiatus is a marine species (Laws 1988, pl. 5 and 6, pg. 187-189; Tynni 1986, pl. 5, fig. 27; Rao and Lewin 1976, pg. 182, fig. 37) D. subcinta is a marine littoral-to-brackish water species. (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 113, pl 15, figs. 3 and 6; Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 626, pl. 92, figs. 7-9) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417258527-1PTXTD1ZIGKBN8HGN67S/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-102+Petroneis+granulata_001.jpg Diatoms - Petroneis granulata Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. P. granulata thrives in marine littoral environments (Rao and Lewin 1976, pg. 202, figs. 255-257; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 108, pl. 13, figs. 1,2,6; Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 636, pl. 97, figs. 1,2) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1587773240182-HBGFDOADIV3O2ADMXMKJ/LGL%232+DIA+2018-173+Trachyneis+aspera_001.jpg Diatoms - Trachyneis aspera Specimen was found in marine sediment in a core from a 14 m asl lake behind Hartley Bay, Douglas Channel area, northern British Columbia. T. aspera is an epipelic polyhalobe (marine) species (Rao and Lewin 1976, pg. 196, figs. 210-211; Tynni 1986, pl. XXV, fig. 152; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 210, pl. 29, fig. 1; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 130, pl. 24, fig. 1) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1587408505831-WUJTQ0BDOM2CHQTDB6WA/LGL%232+DIA+2018-167+Dimeregramma+minor_001.jpg Diatoms - Dimeregramma minor Specimen is from marine sediment in a 14 m asl lake behind Hartley Bay, northern coastal British Columbia. D. minor is a marine species (Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 464, pl. 11, figs. 3-9; Laws 1986, pl. 15, figs. 15-16) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417258338-T03UKFABAW26UHJUY2VA/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-104+Diploneis+rex_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis rex Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. A large marine Diploneis species. (Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 618, pl. 88, fig. 1) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417270972-KW3F2055XX3TMDURDDAG/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-115+Actinoptychus+senarius_001.jpg Diatoms - Actinoptychus senarius Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. A. senarius is a littoral and planktonic species that typically thrives in marine environments, though can also be found in brackish waters. (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 92, pl. 5, figs. 2-3; Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 448, pl. 3, figs. 4-5) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417271516-0ZSR3Q5FUP2O90R07Z6O/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-115+Caloneis+liber+and+Diploneis+smithii+var.+smithii_001.jpg Diatoms - Caloneis liber and Diploneis smithii var. smithii Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. C. liber is a marine diatom (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 120, pl. 19, figs. 1-3; Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 746, pl. 152, fig. 9) D. smithii var. smithii seems to thrive in a range of water salinities, from brackish to marine environments (Witkowski et al. 2000, pl. 88, figs. 2-5, pl. 89, fig. 1; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pl. 112, figs. 2-4) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551156817067-V2RJ1TWF5DOD40VPBD49/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-115+Pinnularia+quadratarea_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia quadratarea Collected from marine sediment in a core from a small, 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. P. quadratarea is one of very few marine Pinnularia species (Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 752, pl. 155, figs. 17-21). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551240224244-I58SAELI5U0RXSBOCKY3/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-115+Bacillaria+socialis_001.jpg Diatoms - Bacillaria socialis Collected from brackish water sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. B. socialis (synonym: Nitzschia socialis) is typically a brackish water species, but it can also be found in marine environments (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 126, pl. 22, fig. 8; Tynni 1986, pl. XXX, fig. 193). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1574730164909-ZKTVFJ1OKC3W37V7OYY6/WRL%232+DIA+WRL-020+Nitzschia+coarctata_002.jpg Diatoms - Nitzschia coarctata Specimen was found in sediment just above the transition from freshwater gyttja to marine sediment in a core sample from a lake 90 m asl, near Kitkiata Inlet/Douglas Channel area, northern British Columbia. A brackish-marine species, quite widespread (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 2, pg. 292, pl. 38, figs.13-15; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 128, pl. 23, figs. 8-9; Witkowski 2000, pg. 814, pl. 186, figs. 4-13). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417286401-IBBBPCSNZ5GAUFAXVLJG/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-178+Gyrosigma+balticum_002.jpg Diatoms - Gyrosigma balticum Collected from sediment at a transition from marine to freshwater conditions in a core from small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. G. balticum is a large species that thrives in brackish waters (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 672, pl. 115, fig. 5; Laws 1988, pg. 216, pl. 20, fig. 5; Tynni 1986, pl. XXV, fig. 155; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 182, pl. 15, fig. 4; Pienitz et al. 2003; pg. 130, pl. 24, fig. 3) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551324687444-S8OO1XP530N2DT26OJPX/KL%232+DIA+2018-050+Navicula+digitoradiata_002.jpg Diatoms - Navicula digitoradiata This specimen is taken from sandy lagoon sediment deposited in Kishkosh Lagoon, at the head of Kishkosh Inlet in northern coastal British Columbia. Navicula digitoradiata is a common brackish water species, which can also often be found in coastal environments (Foged 1981, pg. 258, pl. XXXV, fig. 3; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pl. 34, figs. 1-4; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 192, pl. 20, fig. 1). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543868598591-Z5E245MD17WADHXS9LAE/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-177+Navicula+peregrina_001.jpg Diatoms - Navicula peregrina Collected from sediment at a transition from marine to freshwater conditions in a core from small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. N. peregrina is a brackish water species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 500, pl. 30, fig. 1; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 190, pl. 19, fig. 1) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551240290507-N2K6XMIX479PFGODO5RS/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-104+Navicula+slesvicensis_001.jpg Diatoms - Navicula slesvicensis Collected from brackish water sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. N. slesvicensis (synonym: Navicula viridula var. slesvicensis) lives in slightly brackish waters, saline inland waters, and freshwater with high electrolyte contents (Witkowski et al. 2000, pg. 678, pl. 118, figs. 1-7; https://diatoms.org/species/navicula_slesvicensis) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551059315643-4064EQ9V4DT08QV5VDII/KBP%233DIA+2018-008+Pinnularia+aestuarii_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia aestuarii This specimen is from a sediment core taken from an unnamed bog about 23 m above sea level near Kishkosh Inlet, northern British Columbia. Pinnularia aestuarii is one of few Pinnularia species that can tolerate more saline environments. The species is halophilic and/or mesohalobous (brackish); Krammer and Bertalot (1986) suggest that the species is probably cosmopolitan in electrolyte rich waters. They have been found in salty inland waters near to the coast (as is the case with this specimen) (Foged 1981, pg. 276, pl. XLIV, fig. 3; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 838, pl. 197, figs. 3,4). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551059249118-4MJ2CO1RT70O2S0F6329/LGL%232+DIA+2018-165+Pinnularia+borealis+and+Cyclotella+choctawhatcheeana_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia borealis and Cyclotella choctawhatcheeana These specimens was found in a sediment core from Lower Gabion Lake, behind Hartley Bay in Douglas Channel, British Columbia. Pinnularia borealis is a freshwater epipelic and aerophilic species with distinctive wide and broadly spaced striae (https://diatoms.org/species/pinnularia_borealis; Campeau et al. 1999, pl. 31, figs. 5, 6; Hein 1990, pl. 36, figs. 7, 8; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 798, pl. 177, figs. 1-12). The round specimens are Cyclotella choctawhatcheeana (synonym: C. hakanssoniae). This species is a pelagic mesohalobous (brackish) centric species that can thrive in a wide range of salinities, from saline lakes to coastal areas (Campeau et al. 1999, pl. 1, figs. 10-18, Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 92, pl. 5, fig. 13; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pl. 46, figs. 2-5). In this particular core, C. choctawhatcheeana was the most abundant diatom at the transition of this lake from being a brackish-marine habitat to to a freshwater habitat when relative sea level fell below the elevation of the lakes sill. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1614210943948-ES1ZJRYQT4TXPXEZ18G7/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-042+Brevisira+arentii_005.jpg Diatoms - Brevisira arentii Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coastal British Columbia. B. arentii is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 256, pl. 13, figs. 1-8) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1586465632288-U9PRI6D5MGG3P0SSRNFP/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-013+Meridion+anceps_001.jpg Diatoms - Meridion anceps Specimen was obtained from a sediment core from a 22 m asl lake near Douglas Channel, northern coastal British Columbia. M. anceps is a freshwater/aerophilic species, living in rivers, creeks, submerged mosses, and on wet walls (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 434, pl. 102, figs. 4-10; https://diatoms.org/species/meridion_ancep) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1616097631596-IDZTDZHKJYKTV62OADO0/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-046+Epithemia+sorex_001.jpg Diatoms - Epithemia sorex Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coast of British Columbia. E. sorex is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986 Vol. 2, pg. 428, pl. 106, figs1-13; Cummings et al. 1995, pg. 170, pl. 49, figs. 7-9; https://diatoms.org/species/epithemia_sorex). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1616172310635-69RX4KFFITTNOZTQG2PO/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-048+Epithemia+turgida+var.+granulata_001.jpg Diatoms - Epithemia turgida var. granulata Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coastal British Columbia. E. turgida var. granulata is a large Epithemia species. It lives in freshwater environments (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986 vol. 2, pg. 432, pl. 108, figs. 4-8; Hein 1990, pl. 17, fig. 5). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1616172337407-JL64MRPGYOM9VZJPMNW0/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-048+Epithemia+turgida+var.+granulata_002.jpg Diatoms - Epithemia turgida var. granulata This is a close-up of the previous specimen. Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coastal British Columbia. E. turgida var. granulata is a large Epithemia species. It lives in freshwater environments (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986 vol. 2, pg. 432, pl. 108, figs. 4-8; Hein 1990, pl. 17, fig. 5). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543417285742-USVKN78DJDDMREF17GK6/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-178+Eunotia+serra_001.jpg Diatoms - Eunotia serra var. diadema Collected from freshwater sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. E. diadema/E. serra var. diadema is a halophobic (freshwater) species, typically found in slightly acidic small lakes and ponds (Krammer and Lange Bertalot 1986 Vol. 3, pg. 522, pl. 146, figs. 3 and 4; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 100, pl. 9, figs. 5 and 6; https://diatoms.org/species/eunotia_diadema) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551717473757-YZPE0K26TQ58APYAC7QY/KL%232+DIA+2018-053+Eunotia+bidentula_001.jpg Diatoms - Eunotia bidentula This specimen is from a core sample of sediment deposited in Kishkosh Lagoon, at the head of Kishkosh Inlet in northern coastal British Columbia. Eunotia bidentula is a freshwater species that thrives in acidic environments such as sphagnum bogs (https://diatoms.org/species/eunotia_bidentula; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 554, pl. 161, figs. 21-25; Foged 1981, pg. 200, pl. VI, fig. 8, pg. 202, pl. VII, fig. 7). It’s presence in this lagoon is a result of having been washed in from a freshwater environment (allochtonous context). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1574376198692-L0D5JN978F1TYNTVQ8TU/WRL%232+DIA+WRL-019+Eunotia+kociolekii_001.jpg Diatoms - Eunotia kociolekii Specimen was found in freshwater sediment in a core sample from a lake 90 m asl, near Kitkiata Inlet/Douglas Channel area, northern British Columbia. E. kociolekii is a freshwater species, often found in streams and on moist walls (https://diatoms.org/species/eunotia_kociolekii) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607623068310-A3BLL00HKZ6KSVC3H4KZ/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-105+Hantzschia+amphioxys_001.jpg Diatoms - Hantzschia amphioxys This specimen was observed in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands. H. amphioxys typically lives in terrestrial and freshwater environments. It can thrive in joints between rocks that are wet for short periods. It has also been observed in brackish inland lakes (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 2, pg. 392, pl. 88, figs. 1-7). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1574982517856-6RPWORKZVSJYQFY79D0O/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-014+Fragilaria+arcus_001.jpg Diatoms - Hannaea arcus Specimen is from a sediment core taken from Kitkiata Lake, in the south-central Douglas Channel region, northern British Columbia. H. arcus (aka Fragilaria arcus) is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 465, pl. 117, Figs. 8-13; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 96, pl. 7, fig. 27; https://diatoms.org/species/hannaea_arcus) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607729912159-TUUX4JX10K5Q31TUA0SZ/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-064+Reimeria+sinuata_001.jpg Diatoms - Reimeria sinuata Specimen was observed in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands, northern British Columbia. R. sinuata is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 738, pl. 148, figs. 10-17; https://diatoms.org/species/reimeria_sinuata). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1586450174887-RAW2ZNVWLC99RYSML7ZX/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-013+Diploneis+boldtiana+AND+Fragilaria+arcus_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis boldtiana and Hannaea arcus Specimens were observed in a core sample from a 22 m asl lake near Douglas Channel, northern coastal British Columbia. D. boldtiana is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 660, pl. 109, figs. 10, 11; Foged 1981, pg. 216. pl. XIV, fig. 9, 13, pg. 218, pl. XV, fig. 4; https://diatoms.org/species/diploneis-boldtiana) H. arcus (aka Fragilaria arcus) is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 465, pl. 117, Figs. 8-13; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 96, pl. 7, fig. 27; https://diatoms.org/species/hannaea_arcus) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1586452817912-BG4SMF7B5LA0WLZLM8LX/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-013+Diploneis+elliptica_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis elliptica Specimen was recovered from a core samples from a 22 m asl lake near Douglas Channel, northern coastal British Columbia. D. elliptica is an epipelic freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 658, pl. 108, figs. 1-4; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 174, pl. 11, figs. 10-12; https://diatoms.org/species/diploneis_elliptica) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1586467658523-2OWX6C4RGOG3CXHCY3L5/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-013+Diploneis+marginestriata_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis marginestriata Specimen was found in a core from a 22 m asl lake near Douglas Channel, northern coastal British Columbia. D. marginestriata is a freshwater species, often found in rivers and lakes (Fallu et al. 2000, pg. 154, pl. 10, figs. 10,11; https://diatoms.org/species/diploneis_marginestriata) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607494076010-CDVRY3LO80SL94Z8YL2L/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-104+Diploneis+finnica_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis finnica This specimen was identified in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands. D. finnica is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 662, pl. 110, figs. 1-2; Foged 1981, pg. 218, pl. XV, figs. 1-2; https://diatoms.org/species/diploneis_finnica) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607638311910-UKUNI86U0AC8SS86QY0R/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-105+Diploneis+ovalis_001.jpg Diatoms - Diploneis ovalis This specimen was observed in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands, northern British Columbia. D. ovalis is a freshwater species but it is tolerant of certain saline environments. For example, Campeau et al. found it in salt marshes (Krammer and Lange Bertalot 1986, vol. 1, pg. 658, pl. 108, figs. 14-16; Foged 1981, pg. 216, pl. XIV, fig. 5; Campeau et al. 1999, pg. 176, pl. 12, fig. 1-3; https://diatoms.org/species/diploneis_ovalis1). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551157061294-YGDNZ0YD5IYMXTIZUFHS/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-094+Psammothidium+scoticum+AND+Tabellaria+flocculosa_001.jpg Diatoms - Psammothidium scoticum and Tabellaria flocculosa Collected from freshwater sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. Tabellaria flocculosa (upper left) is a freshwater species common in bogs, flowing water, and lakes of northern latitudes (https://diatoms.org/species/tabellaria_flocculosa). Psammothidium scoticum (center of image) is a benthic freshwater species. Synonym: Achnanthes scotica. (https://diatoms.org/species/psammothidium_scoticum1). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1586397518421-YOS4A7ZCC36DRIVIILZC/KITL%233+DIA+KITL-012+Cavinula+pseudoscutiformis_001.jpg Diatoms - Cavinula pseudoscutiformis Collected from a 22 m asl lake near Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. C. pseudoscutiformis is a freshwater species (Foged 1981, pg. 248, pl. XXX, figs. 15 and 16; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, vol. 1, pg. 558, pl. 59, figs. 12-15) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607729013253-IPWN3IUR5TKJWPDXZPDJ/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-064+Gliwiczia+calcar_002.jpg Diatoms - Gliwiczia calcar This specimen was observed in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands, northern British Columbia. G. calcar (previously known as Achnanthes calcar) is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 4, pg. 342, pl. 47, figs. 1-6; https://diatoms.org/species/gliwiczia_calcar). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1616107754010-M4M4UXK498PECA43WHKQ/WRL%232+DIA+WRL-021+Hippodonta+capitata_002.jpg Diatoms - Hippodonta capitata Specimen is from a core sample from 90 m asl lake in Central Douglas Channel. H. capitata is a freshwater species. Synonymous with Navicula capitata (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pl. 42, figs. 1-4; https://diatoms.org/species/hippodonta_capitata). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543868589328-XD2HF28881HV9RTGZO1I/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-092+Cymbopleura+subrostrata_001.jpg Diatoms - Cymbopleura subrostata Collected from freshwater sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. C. subrostrata is found in a wide range of freshwater habitats (Foged 1981, pg. 286, pl. IL, fig. 1; https://diatoms.org/species/cymbopleura_subrostrata). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607537406873-TW0BORO3BBF3WGM14R96/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-104+Cymbella+cuspidata_001.jpg Diatoms - Cymbella cuspidata This specimen was found in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands. C. cuspidata is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 734, pl. 146, figs. 1-4; Foged 1981, pg. 284, pl. XLVIII, figs. 3-7) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543868588306-WUYJTGAVS1AU9PYOZ6VZ/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-177+Gomphonema+truncatum_001.jpg Diatoms - Gomphonema truncatum Collected from freshwater sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. G. truncatum is a periphytic species that lives in fresh-to-slightly brackish waters (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 760, pl. 159, figs. 11-18; Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 116, pl. 17, fig. 22). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543868600274-IQCR5GPDPUJP7A51IJPE/LGL%232+DIA+2018-163+Stauroneis+phoenocenteron+and+Aulacoseira+islandica_001.jpg Diatoms - Stauroneis phoenicenteron and Aulacoseira distans These specimens were found in a sediment core from Lower Gabion Lake, behind Hartley Bay in Douglas Channel, British Columbia. S. phoenicenteron is a freshwater species (Hein 1990, pl. 44, fig. 7-8; Cumming et al. 1995, pg. 138, pl. 33, fig. 1-3; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, vol. 1, pg. 608, pl. 84, figs. 1-3). A. distans is a colony-forming planktonic freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 3, pg. 288, pl. 29, figs. 1-23) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1606708573661-SPE61D8S5VEVCE1BIRCJ/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-100+Stauroneis+livingstonii_002.jpg Diatoms - Stauroneis livingstonii This specimen was found in peat in a core from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands, on the outer coast of British Columbia.S. livingstonii is a freshwater diatom found in small lakes and fens (https://diatoms.org/species/stauroneis_livingstonii). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1607543486985-MS2XPQTVW1PW6YQSLLU3/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-104+Surirella+amphioxys_001.jpg Diatoms - Surirella amphioxys This specimen was observed in a core sample from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands. S. amphioxys is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 2, pg. 496, pl. 138, figs. 1-5 and pg. 139, pl. 139, figs. 1-8; https://diatoms.org/species/surirella_amphioxys) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1543868605083-VNNRHINC6OUB5V4EBPMO/LGL%232+DIA+2018-163+Surirella+tenera_001.jpg Diatoms - Surirella tenera This specimen was found in a sediment core from Lower Gabion Lake, behind Hartley Bay in Douglas Channel, British Columbia. S. tenera is a freshwater species but can tolerate slightly brackish waters (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 2, pg. 548, pl. 164, figs. 1-4, pg. 550, p54, figs. 6-7l. 165, figs. 1-3; https://diatoms.org/species/surirella_tenera) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1605814643189-X6MHZQ0V18MTEREUOEYX/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-100+Pinnularia+gigas_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia gigas P. gigas is a very large Pinnularia species, found in freshwater ponds and fens, often in nordic/alpine zones (https://diatoms.org/species/pinnularia_gigas). This specimen is from a core sample taken from a bog on the Moore Islands, on the outer coast of northern British Columbia. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551059291383-QAOK5010OC5FVAJQ4AOW/LGL%232+DIA+2018-166+Pinnularia+subgibba_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia subgibba This specimen was found in a sediment core from Lower Gabion Lake, behind Hartley Bay in Douglas Channel, British Columbia. P. subgibba is a benthic and epipelic freshwater species (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 122, pl. 20, figs. 4-6; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 822, pl. 189, figs. 1-3, 8,9) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1614211115922-YOF9O9DC4KYG9GEECEX3/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-042+Pinnularia+legumen_002.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia legumen Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coastal British Columbia. P. legumen (slightly fragmented here) is a freshwater species (Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 812, pl. 184, figs. 1-4; Foged 1981, pg. 270, pl. XLI, figs. 2-3) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551157077486-TKCSBJXUWVG2CKO8X3QW/DBGT%231+DIA+2018-177+Pinnularia+interrupta_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia interrupta Collected from freshwater sediment in a core from a small 8 m asl lake near Kishkosh Inlet, Douglas Channel, northern British Columbia. P. interrupta is a benthic freshwater species. Synonyms: P. biceps, P. mesolepta. (Pienitz et al. 2003, pg. 122, pl. 20, fig. 7; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 824, pl. 190, figs 1-11) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1606708588661-NEFV962E0AWPBSBSWCL9/GIB1%231+DIA+MIPAP-100+Pinnularia+mesolepta_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia mesolepta This specimen was found in peat in a core from an 18 m asl bog on the Moore Islands, on the outer coast of British Columbia. P. mesolepta is a freshwater species (Fallu et al. 2000, pg. 164, pl. 15, figs. 26-29 pg. 166, pl. 16, figs. 4-8). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1614214874001-QIQB09R57KFVKZRV8100/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-042+Pinnularia+nodosa_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia nodosa Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coastal British Columbia. P. nodosa is a freshwater species, common in peaty bogs and springs, as well as streams, ponds, and small lakes (Foged 1981, pg. 270, pl. XLI, fig. 11; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1 , pg. 806, pl. 181, figs. 4-10; https://diatoms.org/species/pinnularia_nodosa) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1616097580189-OQ4QJTF2ADQFOR1ZN9CK/GIL%232+DIA+MIPAP-046+Pinnularia+borealis_001.jpg Diatoms - Pinnularia borealis Specimen is from a core sample taken from a low elevation lake on the Moore Islands, outer coast of northern British Columbia. P. borealis is a freshwater/aerophilic species, found on rocks, soil, and moss as well as in flowing and standing waters (https://diatoms.org/species/pinnularia_borealis; Campeau et al. 1999, pl. 31, figs. 5, 6; Hein 1990, pl. 36, figs. 7, 8; Krammer and Lange-Bertalot 1986, Vol. 1, pg. 798, pl. 177, figs. 1-12). https://brynletham.com/home-1 daily 1.0 2025-11-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537247810232-SE1APJ7BCOJ0MZASANFD/P7164457.JPG Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1536388052512-F4JULC6IXIM46IF9NGBN/P8234744.JPG Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537061389880-ZNFNV6XR4C8245M4XEXE/20180913_081400.jpg Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537247436872-6L6K6DLNPTYVJZ6VG901/P8160405.JPG Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537248565374-4QKHLNDM6UYS7MJVAPP9/P6143960.JPG Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537249397080-8IWOPY1KV35TCT8A28E2/PC093536.JPG Home https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537250417335-FDQCUUCVPVJ9FYIPREAH/P6084063.JPG Home https://brynletham.com/galleries-1 daily 0.75 2024-12-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537592337819-SY7BVX884FQNTACZTKGI/KL%232+DIA+2018-061+Coscinodiscus+oculus-iridis_001.jpg Galleries https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537594068861-MLZ1YI7W0ZCWNU381GV6/PB032521.JPG Galleries https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1537592574429-SETRV0SZTXBXDMT11VVG/DSCN2716.JPG Galleries https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos daily 0.75 2025-11-10 https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2025/11/9/tell-surezha-excavations-iraqi-kurdistan-september-2025 monthly 0.5 2025-11-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757565499-WGHV1JTKJCS40YBJS0W0/20250909_054152_tilt.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Full moon over Tell Surezha - we start work early in the morning to avoid the heat of the day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757538200-7UXHHHIT4R046W1BEF9E/20250902_085755.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Gil Stein leads a tour of the site to our team from the top of the archaeological mound, planning the season’s activities. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757583769-OLWT4V2XZSAUTW17T3W4/20250909_090649.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Tell Surezha is located adjacent to the modern Kurdish village of Gird-i-Surezha, which, as it was thousands of years ago, is still inhabited by pastoralists who would take their herds out to pasture every morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757545575-2LSQU3N8L6Z1J68JFTY5/20250908_053259_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Morning bus ride from Erbil to Surezha. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757685240-LW101GOU5YNQHT4S3SC5/20250923_054142_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 The team mounts the site as the sun rises. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757692412-VYEB3549THR2F6CAONEG/20250923_060827.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 We fly drone orthophotos of the excavation areas every morning - it’s a race against time to get the photos flown before the sunlight hits and casts crazy shadows.. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757610080-CF2EAF979LN3YROSX4E0/20250913_172401_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Overlooking the excavation trenches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757539809-YGTIQFLGR9F1P1JL3T60/20250907_121317.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Rasha guides us through a series of small walls in her excavation trench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757557564-H1UASYGP9JNKK9VYHIH5/20250908_061909.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757581092-0WWUZDU4FC7HGUVWM9L6/20250911_080100_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 An example of unfired clay bearing several stamp seal impressions. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757587798-PS8E6HPS2O7BDUDKUKEA/20250913_105055_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 A stamp seal impression. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757597184-ECKZ8ACKNFS1X667PS32/20250913_114404_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Deer figure stamp seal impression. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757566723-25DPGE2CAAA5SJ6GC3W2/20250908_115118.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Hiwa and Hallo look up from their excavation of a large jar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757597694-SAOT1W0IOF62TP3BS0A4/20250913_112352_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Dusting off the walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757623682-YPODALLMU06EJHY14RIT/20250917_061848_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Nali, Hiwa, Netzir, and Hallo - dusting off the mudbrick walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757623495-RLK8CYWXIT0X74ZRKLDR/20250915_115716.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Hiwa holds up a base of a well preserved pottery vessel that he has excavated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757646932-7ZOZJ9FJSI54XTOZ3KAZ/20250917_090521.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757639231-LB2LS549KXD82Y1HXPY7/20250917_111525.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 A carved stone stamp - most likely used to impress clay in a fashion similar to the stamp seal impressions on the previous photos. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757742244-MXCNLSYQO0JOQ6ZJSW5E/20250924_161354.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 We carefully collect samples from the floors of room interiors to look for seeds and other tiny clues about what people were doing in each building. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757747641-35PK17DYNKZS8HESNXX9/20250924_171309_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757653997-K0YGJZ73ZS9NRJJ5MHXW/20250918_055115.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757678149-A87GKS2VB71WNSKJ7KPX/20250922_055437_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Examining the stratigraphy in one of the excavation trenches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757731144-EY0G077B9B1BDBNVAZD7/20250924_120841_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Check out those mudbricks! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757669978-NMRYVXTO0RNIU0PR07UA/20250920_085730_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Disassembled mudbrick walls. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757676975-CB9IHDF568SJC1L6LM4U/20250921_185218.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Back in the lab - pottery analysis in the bottom of an empty swimming pool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762758150275-92YXRJU3GNFHJDMGWQWT/20250919_204636.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Animal bones recovered from the excavations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757660433-BAA8N7KKPBWP2DZDOJ5O/20250919_204648.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Stone tools recovered from the excavations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757615199-MP15EQTSZLWEG0XV1J2U/20250913_172336.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 The shadow of Tell Surezha. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757702160-O975CQRBPDG63FE64GZG/20250923_061606.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757700757-PS3ETVKGZFAVJHH7I05B/20250923_061853_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757717989-L365VEPODTCJ43ZWX69I/20250924_120029.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Operation 12 Excavation Team! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757768606-OKXKVX2F43Z06S05DOV0/IMG-20250922-WA0000.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 One day we got hit by a sandstorm… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757715033-ELSZUE7JE8B0NQMK8XXT/20250924_085359.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 Some of our awesome crew members. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757753827-KW2M6THO61DII8JSHICK/20250924_175125.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757570589-NK6AUMRZL17YZBQ2T4VU/20250909_060034_crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 sunrise over Surezha https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1762757755546-X9PAXJTD47AMPGITCM9W/20250925_055828.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2025 https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2024/12/8/archaeology-in-mosul-october-2024-excavations-at-nineveh-and-surveying-tell-arne monthly 0.5 2024-12-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747795536-EH7F4U37YL5HXESD1MUO/20241016_061314.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne ‘Bab al Shamas’ - a neon sign welcomes us to Shamash Gate, the eastern gate of Nineveh, where archaeological excavations are taking place… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731148430-ZWBP45JZCPT0D3JTGFMA/20241008_092425.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The gate passes through monumental mudbrick walls that surround the city of Nineveh, constructed by Sennacherib over 2600 years ago. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731119192-G29GZIQZ1F9OFCUPP8YP/20241007_061306.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Sunrise viewed from Shamash Gate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731128480-NQMG8W2YZ4IX2H66R363/20241007_064806.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Our crew’s guard watches over the excavations from the wall above. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731155823-YENG7ZTLWJLY06PU9OCZ/20241008_115128.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The crew works to clear mudbrick rubble filling the rooms on either side of the gate passageway. Note the individual bricks visible in the walls surrounding the room. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731128964-P7APP2M9UXAMP3XDNGCS/20241007_072136.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Over 8 meters of rubble fill some of the rooms. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731132499-NWM7RWNBEF0DIIJP6YO6/20241007_084000-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The passage through the gate itself is lined with immense stone orthostats and paved with large stone blocks. The back- and under-side of these huge stones were inscribed with declarations of how great Sennacherib was. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731137914-SHB6DVG04G99W1YR27II/20241008_061142.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The team works to clear the various layers of roadways through the gate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731139991-VDSRS0FDJ7DNH5TOZZF9/20241008_061738.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Excavations of the road surfaces revealed evidence for a violent battle, which likely corresponds with the overtaking of Nineveh by a coalition of adversaries to the Neo-Assyrians in 680 BC. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731144282-IJT53S3AD8VR0R6Z6BFN/20241008_081805.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne A bronze arrow tip, likely from the battle of Nineveh in 680 BC. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731155746-NU9ALQL1CCIOT72PXLRM/20241008_115743.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne A fragment of a large brick with a cuneiform inscription. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731167058-SFQ6A8R2IY7INGT34VO2/20241008_115759.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The crew works to clear the gate rooms. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731166990-3D2UB8FXWUOHDZ169D6X/20241008_120836.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Our team included a mixture of local Mosul archaeologists and Canadian archaeologists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747799703-129I1882EBPGVGCW8DMA/20241016_071047.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Khaled and Rasha conduct some finer excavation work within the gate… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731175108-MXZ8HHV4T18RCLN3IGU0/20241009_093922.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne … while I take on some of the heavy rubble removal https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747784730-R25N274J4M4DE87ORB41/20241015_062453.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Immediately inside the gate lies this neighbourhood of the city of Mosul. Mosul was captured by ISIS in 2014, and nearly completely destroyed in the ensuing battles. The city has been rapidly reconstructed since. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747791446-Z3CE3BE8FO1PFCIT29Y4/20241015_063746.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Part way through the excavation of one of the gate’s side rooms, the team encounters a tunnel carved by ISIS sometime from 2014-2017. ISIS members used the ancient walls for defense against the coalition forces that came to oust them from Mosul in 2017. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747794510-X2M2HFUUJM6G4ZKJBUV2/20241015_085921.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Rasha peers into an ISIS tunnel… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731174041-LY1APPZTEELJMJJ68Q4Z/20241010_085858.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne In addition to our work at Shamash Gate, we helped Khaled conduct a survey of tell sites in the slum-suburbs of the periphery of Mosul. Our main survey was focused at a site in a garbage dump controlled by a Shi’a militia, with whom we had to negotiate access. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747774885-GT9M07HQ2D8WC3P5OKUM/20241013_110658.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Iraqi guards and militia escort through Mosul’s slums. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747783533-WOD7JNBQL7IR8F7E1I65/20241013_112617.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne The garbage dump surrounding Tell Arne. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747769889-HRQ6TVP6N83KLI1V1KLZ/20241012_090458.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne This is the tell that we surveyed. The militia have driven their truck to the top to check things out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747807241-ZBRJJBD672YZ4KKL5OLY/20241017_064708.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne View from the top of Tell Arne. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733731183088-GG6UQCCPCQCJS7942AKH/20241012_080527.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Our survey involved setting out a grid on and around the tell, and then counting and collecting artifacts diagnostic of various time periods across the grid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747767177-CYKPAGE7LNV27CGRJ7LX/20241013_064108-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Surveys around Tell Arne. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747777979-RZ7KKNQH3BXOU8QXR1MG/20241013_112207.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Militia escorts through Mosul slums https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747786899-WWI7OV826A8VPJXVKXKC/20241015_063714.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Sunrise excavation planning at Bab Shamash. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747803402-EKC663U6P7IPF5BJJQLK/20241016_165607.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Our survey took us to several other sites on the outskirts of Mosul. At this one we got caught in a dust storm. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747801234-XJX4BEF1QX661H6LSQQ9/20241016_164419.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Our survey took us to several other sites on the outskirts of Mosul. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747805087-2I58BBVW7XY7BEV8HRWH/20241016_165918.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Examples of pottery from one of the survey sites. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747811868-KSF4H5FXBUDQBZWFQ0C8/20241018_110728.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne One of the sites we visited was Tell Arpachiyah - a famous Halaf and ‘Ubaid Period site excavated by Max Mallowan and Agatha Christie in the early 1900s. Since that time, the site has been engulfed by the city’s slums. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747809938-XFQHCD5PABBSYNPJS92A/20241018_110625.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne It did not take long for our crew to draw a crowd of curious locals at Tell Arpachiyah. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747814951-KAMX1OBSV1AGYL72WJ37/20241018_110852.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne We drum up local interest at Tell Arpachiyah, and the kids begin running around excitedly to find pot sherds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747817610-4KXX4HQSJI874X8SP6Z0/20241018_111411.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Rasha gives an impromptu archaeology lesson at Arpachiyah https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747819642-11PG1LPJ5CJ1DYGEZNVD/20241018_111538.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Arpachiyeh kids. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747821544-8ZN9AXSSVCBQPOC09LUF/20241018_112313.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Getting people pumped on potsherds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747823200-4ZGEDJ929MVIS64W6E67/20241018_112346.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Tangible archaeological excitement. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747825525-EQGGGX2SXHNLA4SBS3CS/20241019_095429.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Some fun shots of our Shamash Gate Crew - the guys in the background are the bomb squad. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733747827711-MSBMQYYOYN7JHPSKVLLA/20241019_102716.jpg Field Work Photos - Archaeology in Mosul, October 2024: Excavations at Nineveh and Surveying Tell Arne Some fun shots of our Shamash Gate crew. https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2024/12/4/surezha-excavations-iraqi-kurdistan-september-2024 monthly 0.5 2024-12-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357231942-3V0FLJLFEQO8PMRWMO5Z/20240904_060440.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 The archaeological site is a mound (tell) formed of mud brick and other archaeological debris accumulated over millennia of occupation at Surezha. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357282430-MJ9X90G9OMJRWB5GHGN1/20240910_055344.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A panoramic view of sunrise from the top of the tell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357420784-D6MUFMH0M0695ASYURZM/20240926_060944.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sunrise at Surezha. Excavations begin at first light, as temperatures rose above 40 degrees by midday, even in September. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357398979-7KI4LRALS6SDJKVPLK2P/20240925_124929.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Our happy crew, crammed into a minibus en route to or from excavation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357425625-75ZVDKM08QINFWV1AMU0/20240926_061329.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 We excavated in 10 m x 10 m trenches to expose the walls and other architectural features of the ancient village. Each trench had its own crew of 5-6 people, consisting of local Kurdish excavators, university students, and more experienced archaeologists. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357439244-MEB3ILIDX4XM258JSIYL/20240926_063316.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A 6000 year old pottery kiln is visible on this excavation trench https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357441401-EUGS79FEH72TKOTXPPLN/IMG-20240921-WA0010.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Me with some of my team members, planning the days’ excavations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357280613-NM36TA5T91UF1X0CRQKY/20240912_110846.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Rasha Elendari has exposed the top surfaces of several mudbrick walls in her excavation trench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357247030-SD2YGY8CRL1S205SZ7WZ/20240908_095039.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 My team works to expose wall, rooms, and storage pits in our excavation trench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357299689-1UMMANLQ12YJ8WCP4ZOF/20240914_064434.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sayed and Halo working dilligently https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357316563-5AH9BAG8MMD8Y12Q977Q/20240914_094116.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Rasha exposes more walls in her excavation trench. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357317048-2BGNREX3VBS4S9VBQ1CC/20240916_080616.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sayed exposes a pebbly surface - probably part of an outdoor courtyard, where pebbles would help with drainage. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357366100-KXKQCQMF8WXJB2DOTQRQ/20240922_081758.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A fully intact pot that was buried in an outdoor pit in the ancient village. Often, people were buried in such pots in northern Mesopotamian sites. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357439497-R32HN51DHJK4EIHDDDC7/20240926_063328.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 We map the locations of key finds at the site using a Total Station (as well as a drone and 3D scanning). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357346810-30XOYIUXWPPVRQEVCT2X/20240921_101129.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sayed helps map the location of a fully intact pot while Andrea Zurek-Ost excavates it from the ground. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357383661-IXTPO78023TYEJCG0GXV/20240925_110903.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Rasha, Gil, and Jan ponder the secrets of the past. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357399245-XZUL8ZP11Y6082OPSHL2/20240925_121333.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 walls, rooms, pits in my excavation trench https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357441800-42MCVR54EGKCBB0TPAD0/IMG-20240926-WA0007.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Ready for backfilling! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357375837-A94Q1WK58LTLWUU4UYNY/20240924_174130.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Preparing to return after a long days’ excavations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357327731-M2P64ECNS6KBCGNTGOG7/20240918_091501.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Crew lunch at one of the Kurdish team members’ house https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357443478-5P715C1MQ7IH380HI6MS/IMG-20241022-WA0019.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357259846-OBN9LUIYCX6U5DDAN2WH/20240911_111854.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 impromptu dabke dance in the excavation trench https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357296380-IBB8TIVSHQ1VDY3OHHX1/20240912_114424.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 The crew really liked dancing… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357359315-19Z7HXZJFZQ1DOAXLI27/20240922_092545-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Alejandro needed a haircut, so Mohammad, who is a barber as his day job, brought his kit to site for a breakfast coiffure https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357332964-33VU641ZMV67BG7F5K8P/20240919_054742-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A view out over the Erbil Plain. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357229523-2NHD8K1YC6SF8SC6Q2Y9/20240902_181023.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 The rooftop of our dig house in Erbil, where the occasional sunset beer was consumed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357325889-4MYG1U3KMR71IK3BIEBP/20240918_182211-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Pottery finds at our dig house. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357350911-E5ZQXG90T7IX50HLBJ12/20240921_183407.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A presentation of lithic finds at our dig house. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357411902-I1H1C892TSP9PJNUS4AR/20240925_180453.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 The dig house had an empty swimming pool, which we converted into a pottery lab. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357336814-5H7TWYOLHJBYU7S5RRS8/20240919_124708.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 A stamp seal impression - these were effectively signatures that could be stamped onto wet clay covering deliveries of goods, which could then indicate who the delivery was from and if the package had been tampered with before arrival. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357442901-GAKDUDS2P7UH2LJX9IWJ/IMG-20241022-WA0018-crop.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Full crew after wrapping up the season’s excavations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357408591-Q33MV6OY0CRQ6ISZJF8G/20240926_052155.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sunrise over Surezha https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1733357244645-ZKEMJAOAFCR01O11T4WF/20240909_055356.jpg Field Work Photos - Tell Surezha Excavations, Iraqi Kurdistan, September 2024 Sunrise over Surezha https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2024/10/17/north-coast-field-work-2024-1 monthly 0.5 2024-10-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235280186-32UMBZK35UJQAAHE8XZ7/20240606_062649.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 The beach in front of Clamstown, Fin Island https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235273806-FE0BQPTD8NFD8JJW3E6K/20240605_080216.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Coast Mountain College students learn to survey the intertidal zone at low tide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235165618-4BGWM0088OKTO0SJAO7N/20240603_155246.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Coast Mountain College students learn to identify culturally significant plants and survey the ancient village site for remnants of managed and curated ‘Forest Gardens’ https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235165208-ZZE40LNZH1RJGAQ5PZYL/20240604_103411.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Coast Mountain College students learn to dig shovel tests into the archaeological deposits to examine the soil profiles at potential forest garden locations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235213831-WMRXQSS442TTF1Z3H07E/20240604_174522.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Coast Mountain College students learn to dig shovel tests into the archaeological deposits to examine the soil profiles at potential forest garden locations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235233802-U0Q0BEBJ210BRVAGKFXX/20240605_075306.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Coast Mountain College students survey the intertidal zone in front of the ancient Clamstown village site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266327554-2NG381FY1NP74Z74C08R/Copy+of+20240605_123051%281%29.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Students from Hartley Bay join Coast Mountain College students for field work at Clamstown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235334184-NQQRDX8F3M95CF1Q2AVA/20240616_155609.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Gearing up in Hartley Bay for transit to the Moore Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266290032-NG71R6XBEZ0Q1F4CGLY3/beach+in+front+of+newly+IDed+village.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Beach on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729235315068-8QZNSS8SWH978JTI8T3O/20240617_212623.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 paddling in a lagoon on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266010945-KDVZ5MYLYKPI5O9D88MM/20240619_071125.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Camp living: Coffee in camp on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266111688-NG3AX28CGQJ33H58ZG8O/20240628_083254.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Donald Reece about to enjoy a breakfast of champions before a big day of excavating on the Moore Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266055367-ZVGW97177OFJN27GMF0S/20240621_185258.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Corn on the cob and fish-n-chips over the fire at the Moore Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266078918-VFZ56VACKNKL96YLKMB2/20240624_182105.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 We even found a way to watch the Stanley Cup in camp, two days’ boat ride away from Prince Rupert… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266387981-OTS0X0BZAVCNQ2R1EWMF/rockshelter+01.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Excavating a rockshelter on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266781630-NJT14LOSX6AG58M5O9O4/20240621_155133.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Excavations progress on the Moore Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266338627-KWUHNY61U3J8B0CYKW8R/excavation+outside+rockshelter+with+whale+bone.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Rasha Elendari excavating into a 9000 year-old habitation site on a raised shoreline on the Moore Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266016710-6C5WR0S3YKIA3SJN7VJL/20240619_095545.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 the team sets up water screening facilities https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266089459-9U2LG8NQFZVAFEXTUT18/20240625_135212.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 shovel testing on ancient raised shorelines on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266271534-AYH9TY6WPC9NYUTA1TAU/augering+shell+midden+at+newly+IDed+village.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Auger testing at a 1000-year-old village site on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266258499-ZNL1GN4VYFFAJJ1H77TG/base+of+spear+point+from+rockshelter.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 a spear point base! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266350994-ILFM7TZGTVFCS0CM64DG/obsidian+microblade.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 John Reece holds an obsidian microblade that he found on the Moore Islands https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266033801-OT5HOM84PZ05E9IVMITT/20240620_213732.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266116722-0PKCJR534ZOFG7XA2NU3/20240801_202102.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Survey of Gitga’at Reserves with Spencer Greening’s vessel, August 2024 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266179831-64L1ZW7BQWOGXFV7BHIQ/20240804_075917.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Islands in the mist https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266179361-GIFUOMKT42J6K2I2DXS8/20240803_191911.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 a large stone walled fish trap at a creek mouth https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266217809-ZETSY4AZIJDXYS0W0CAP/20240809_084849.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Rasha Elendari, Spencer Greening, Eric Letham, and Maaya’ol — beach survey at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266154006-ZS8Z7U5R8LX71U7HIIAY/20240803_143129.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Rasha Elendari percussion coring at a shell midden site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266225052-RN6PNQYA8DKZPDP8YFQB/20240805_090028.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 yesterday’s shell midden… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1729266138375-L69FMZF1UHC2AK80S3J1/20240801_213851.jpg Field Work Photos - North Coast Field Work 2024 Sunset at Princess Royal Island https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2023/5/16/clamstown-field-course-may-2023 monthly 0.5 2023-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274942286-38O1KQWDJM0NOSW85I50/20230507_125516.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Arrival at Hartley Bay, transferring gear to Fin Island. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274952310-8Y2PL8YJ88CGLBGU143F/20230507_130622.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Hartley Bay, awaiting transport to Fin Island https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684281457670-HE5LYICVNWM2QLANX9ER/345678149_1629136400830132_2996497461724465917_n.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Photograph by George Fisher, Gitga’at Guardian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275151715-H7HCJ3UFRD9X1NYCD9D6/20230508_144928.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 camp on Fin Island https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274972386-NAMX7NAZ5XHDCTSKIIL3/20230507_174833.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274974689-WQLZ0AOMXQD33ZOXO7ZC/20230507_205131.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273803783-1BZSGVUVZ21AMA358O65/DSC01896.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN students receive a lecture in the sunshine at Fin Island https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684281458107-C89DH3ETK3XGNASJ859Z/345719605_625752472934169_2134456155781229728_n.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Photograph by George Fisher, Gitga’at Guardian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275177453-O1D5OSMNV9IT46212Y8G/20230508_113612.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275047242-4PEKNCYC9GL6LAZCAN0S/20230508_112216.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN Students, Gitga'at Guardians, and Hartley Bay Middle School students conduct beach experiments to assess the impacts of anthropogenic tending on butter clam health https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275126237-SM5LT8W8G6GPBPXTKDUQ/20230508_113627.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273832487-J3ZQ5BKNEMCKGR89Z3IX/DSC01898.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273833851-YRSS7EK51ZUP1NN3Q1V2/DSC01903.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275345473-3PJIYH0VXZB03UA34KJT/20230509_102609.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN Students Pawanjot Kaur and Paddy Nath Shaw work with SFU PhD candidate Kim-Ly Thompson to show students from Hartley Bay their intertidal experiment to assess the impacts of anthropogenic tending on butter clam health https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275339259-G2IK8RKYIX5N22ZFAUE7/20230509_104345.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275064161-DDQLFAKKGYF4GDNBUPW2/20230508_113455.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273865441-6O6HSIWHLBJ2HPEMFOTX/DSC01913.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273869922-83V0ZYEI8PSW9J6ZJJZH/DSC01914.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275183117-7J49KLN0JJ44AQMIZAUB/20230508_165438.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN students learn to survey and identify Northwest Coast plants to explore how people managed and cultivated plant communities around the ancient village site. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275444638-XXTIUF8MXVJC8NW2YRVV/20230509_143345.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 UBC Masters Student Max Miner explains plant survey and identification to CMTN students and high school students from Hartley Bay https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273989119-L2TZYTWO7KXTCZH6O3ZN/DSC01949.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Students from Hartley Bay examine a house post from a 100 year-old structure, built in the same area as other houses for thousands of years… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274026704-ZJO23P31NJBVITF4N91B/DSC01965.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 UBC Masters Student Max Miner helps CMTN Student Holly Crosby identify food plants around the ancient village site https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274045585-5BOGJ7CGI9NUSYAD7K0F/DSC01969.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274049135-FI2OEB1RLVQQAB149451/DSC01970.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273896526-SCWDLBY6X9A67IHIRF0R/DSC01916.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273899366-SEXUVECMHS92DEQODJTM/DSC01918.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Gitga’at Guardians John Reece and Shelby Fisher excavate a 3000 year-old area of the village site with SFU Masters student Katie Dierks https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273927356-26SFHO0J21Z66XKQ1ULL/DSC01924.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273929867-FLPG3S19FH5FOUL4D3FG/DSC01926.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273955904-IN870GKJLNIYMOZ4JX34/DSC01932.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN Student Mason Di Leta helps SFU Masters Student Katie Dierks record findings at an archaeological excavation of part of the ancient village site that has been occupied for at least 4500 years https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274001187-ZLMWKH16Z0P17G4FLAHR/DSC01955.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275434627-9EAU1UN18NIEWRLN5MQL/20230509_144951.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 SFU Masters Student Katie Dierks leads an archaeological excavation of an area of the ancient village that is over 4500 years old, while students from Hartley Bay and CMTN observe and get their hands dirty screening to look for artifacts and ancient food remains https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274075962-CVJSLTW7YT6J5EMKKUCJ/DSC01973.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 CMTN Student Mason Di Leta and Gitga'at Guardian John Reece screen archaeological sediment for artifacts and ancient food remains while Hartley Bay School student Brayden Bolton looks on https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274020617-QHZDPT3686VH1ZJEM6ZV/DSC01961.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684274076516-HQGD4HDBY4CJGXB38PE0/DSC01975.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684273972066-UHATGXTDCTSOJQ0YTQ9N/DSC01945.JPG Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 3000 year old clam shell https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275394085-2ANAQ38Z1WWV0OLW12XV/20230509_120954.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Students from Hartley Bay School stand in the base of a house depression from a 1000 year-old plank house. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275491627-5CGZMKR3B3AZ11IJ88L1/20230509_145612.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275185949-IVWYWFXHG39VMEUNFIXR/20230509_100024.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275013484-F5A1Z0ORWRN5HPK5OXL0/20230507_205538.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275009698-KFMQS1YNQ3H02OMFENPN/20230507_210444.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275495469-BN9EU3BK4NZZZIPDZL6G/20230509_210043.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275394692-OZ2F6T27LF6LYKB0NJ96/20230509_132113.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275526358-7TH39YO2LGLH0BR77OTL/20230510_094346.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275564302-C6C0AQBFWAWHA4LRDMVI/20230511_091108.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684281465425-UL9W79FH5DX2FJECNCY1/345846360_3204727256339635_8228454229009933383_n.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Photograph by George Fisher, Gitga’at Guardian. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275476355-VNA4CKRSCQQQQZMT8JBU/20230511_090630.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275499507-CFVQZA00G4P7OLB7YXFW/20230511_092513.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Returning to Hartley Bay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1684275510250-50RWLIZ91LAJ9P0TPDR6/20230511_093711.jpg Field Work Photos - Clamstown Field Course, May 2023 Returning to Hartley Bay https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2021/1/2/outer-coast-archaeological-survey-2020 monthly 0.5 2021-01-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634841809-9HW6K20SXN2LL0X6MEFC/whitmore+view+2.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 The archipelago consists of dozens of low-lying islands in Ts’msyen territories, in the Hecate Strait off the north coast of British Columbia. Today they are a two-day power boat ride from Prince Rupert, the nearest coastal city. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634610674-5Y17NCTUDYXNFAQCOI03/P6200588.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Travel to and from the islands by canoe in ancient times would have required a long crossing of open waters, and could only be done during particularly calm days. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634585636-TI99MD6BV5OT9MD15YWI/IS+-+P1350496.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Even in the typically-calm early summer season, weather often blows up on the islands, making travel treacherous. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634464745-0FOICZYLYA2TM0PS32ZQ/20200623_075612.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 For our field work we set up camp in a sheltered anchorage to be protected from adverse weather during our two week stay. Our research vessels included the Gitga’at Guardian Watchman, The Dipper, Thalassiosira Pacifica, and the Gitga’at Provider. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634755300-JK6MHP9RRV9Y1PU556JS/P6270765.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Our crew, from left to right: Spencer Greening (Gitga’at Nation and SFU Archaeology), Eric Letham (independent geologist), Ian Sellers (Inlailawatash Archaeology), Robin Robinson (Gitga’at Nation), Johnston Reece (Gitga’at Nation), and Jacob Kinze Earnshaw (independent archaeologist). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634577350-YICTGRPQIGSX0634ZJ3J/IS+-+P1350079.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 And this is me. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634804744-4QHA8LY3DJ4P89689D5J/P7010870.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Weather changes quickly out on the islands, meaning that we had to be provisioned for all conditions. Luckily, everyone kept smiling even during torrential downpours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634452089-RORME977PSV8JUKM3QU9/20200626_095631.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Even during rough weather, we were able to move between islands to search for archaeological sites. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634841829-HQA4FI3LEQ6DB8DOZQAE/P7010896.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 The Guardian Watchman and Thalassiosira Pacifica being towed by the Gitga’at Provider across the open crossing between the mainland area and the islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634486819-2PBDVWAKM8W2CK23DKKW/20200627_140500.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Our archaeological survey was informed by our understanding of how sea level has changed through time. Using detailed topographic maps generated by LiDAR remote sensing, we selected locations across the islands that we anticipated could have evidence for ancient human occupation. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634573901-DKBRO78I9YFEVFY1IAXZ/IS+-+P1350008.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Our selection of places to look for archaeological sites included areas higher up in the forest that were once at the shoreline when sea level was higher. We picked these search locations in advance and then hiked up through the forest to them. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634581752-OXA96P0IEEVM7LOMWY2V/IS+-+P1350122.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Some of our survey locations included spots in today’s intertidal zone, because at the end of the last Ice Age, sea level was several meters below its current position. This means that evidence of early human occupation of the islands could be buried beneath today’s beach. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634644832-HVF6B8MGJKTYCNOOYDP9/P6220637.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Many of our survey locations were accessible by canoe through the calm channels between the small islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634609717-PZA07FLUZL695R8QB6KA/P6200577.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Archaeological survey involves searching for material remains of ancient humans, and consists of searching both the exposed surface of the land as well as testing underground to see what is buried at certain locations. At all beach locations we would search for artifacts on the surface, as well as evidence for human modification of beaches, such as clearing rocks to make canoe runs, fish traps, or clam gardens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634780480-XL4N69X5RAXUA016RA66/P6280813.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 This is an ancient village site; in the foreground you can see where lanes have been cleared in the boulders on the beach to create canoe runs: cleared paths for people to safely pull their canoes up above high tide. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634697607-CFTA9KBY8R4K2TRBKKHO/P6240699.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Our crew assembled with their gear in front of one of the survey locations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634498536-GY13FRQJ7VLDZ1Y2IGAH/DSCF6008.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 The rain forest on the Islands is lush and in some areas quite thick. However, beneath the surface of accumulated rotten wood and soil one can find evidence for ancient human occupation if they know where to look. Photo by Jacob Kinze Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634757693-GD5UBDOV5VH5RBQH72IA/P6280809.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 One method for testing beneath the surface for archaeological sites is percussion coring: taking small diameter core sample of soil that we can use to look for deeply-buried remains of human activity. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634729877-QO95AURNQGGDRWKXB3V4/P6250736.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Another survey method is shovel testing: digging small test excavations for a wider window beneath the ground at particular locations. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634536508-DQR4YUYYS04B52Q2W35P/DSCF8120.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 One of the tell-tale signs of an archaeological site on the Northwest Coast are buried accumulations of shell left around occupation sites by people in the past. These distinctive crunchy white deposits are easily identified with low impact testing methods like coring. Photo by Jacob Kinze Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634529666-PRAXJHLCSF9386K2LB3V/DSCF8092.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Archaeological deposits are also often rich with charcoal. Here, sediment from a buried archaeological site has turned our hands black from the charcoal of millennia of human-lit fires. Photo by Jacob Kinze Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634581697-P0YK8OMXQ17EWLL6GL6V/IS+-+P1350309.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Sometimes we would get night time visitors at our survey locations – look closely at the foreground of this photo near to a shovel test. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634579419-6YKN5FQDRWD4UECPBVCF/DSCF8170.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 When digging shovel tests, the moist, sticky Northwest Coast soil needs to be water screened through mesh in order to find buried artifacts. Here Johnston and Ian admire stone flakes from tool making on the islands 10,000 years ago. Photo by Jacob Kinze Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634583601-C5SRV7FZVF1HE0XQQRQV/IS+-+P1350437.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Johnston displays a beautiful 10,000 year-old stone artifact that he recovered from water screening. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634583365-GB7EBKPQXB17SDWC48J1/IS+-+P1350345.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Other archaeological features on the islands include Culturally Modified Trees – trees from which people collected bark, kindling, sap. These are evidence of more recent use of the islands over the last 100+ years. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634785099-TFCPLITX5OZU3AT3XCJJ/P6290831.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 We also continued some research towards refining our understanding of the sea level history of the islands by coring some bogs and ponds as we did in 2019. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634671776-1UP4IDSO0J5AD5BIUL0V/P6230695.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Dusk sets late over our camp’s anchorage during the Summer Solstice at the end of a long day of field work. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634671064-ZOOTCXMI87UVDN9KUGH5/P6230691.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Two weeks of living out of a shore camp required a cozy set-up. The days’ ends after work were usually spend relaxing around the fire and drying wet rain gear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634571453-JKD8IKICNFILO5NS1KA3/DSCF8161.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Ian prepares dinner over the fire. Photo by Jacob Kinze Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634699434-QAJN2O0A4VRR340JFXUI/P6240727.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 Campfire cooking at its finest: corn, pork chops, fry bread, and baked potatoes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634579369-K54II5P532S4CU7ZS0UW/IS+-+P1350109.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 We supplemented our meals with the bounty of the sea. Here Eric pulls up a prawn trap while the rest of the crew eagerly anticipates the haul. Photo by Ian Sellers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634812198-IIS81RZCO3BN291MW6AC/P7010878.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 A calm drizzly morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634832444-E00YEBVHUUB9ELCLBCOH/P7010895.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 After two weeks of survey, the crew is still all smiles. Until next year! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1609634644702-9V61E2V7P4UVOBFGSOBT/P6220648.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Archaeological Survey, 2020 A fiery sunset sets the sky ablaze. On calm evenings, the islands are one of the most peaceful places on the planet. https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2019/9/21/coring-august-2019 monthly 0.5 2019-10-03 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178947382-4QMXF7Q7K7BODCH28OZ5/P8240155.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The islands are a low elevation set of islands in the Hecate Strait off the northern coast of British Columbia, Canada. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569179088275-R4SS3DG54WYRWO9D3VB4/20190517_194836.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The archipelago consists of three main islands and dozens of smaller rocky islets. They are home to innumerable seabirds, sea mammals, and a wide variety of other intertidal and offshore sea life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178823487-1YY4D4TOBA84TMR0OHOS/P8240088.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Vegetation on the island is stunted and the trees are often sparse and scraggly because the islands are exposed to strong winds and severe coastal weather. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178822972-BAQ75F876M0QNVZU477F/P8230080.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 When the weather is calm, however, the islands are a peaceful joy to explore by boat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569087511464-TUG2EYGF69VTJW8T6MWG/DSCF7934.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Our crew consisted of several members of the Gitga’at Nation: Gitga’at Guardians from Hartley Bay Robin Robinson and Isiah Dundas (front left and right, respectively), and Spencer Greening (back right), who is also a PhD student at Simon Fraser University. The archipelago is within the territories of several of the coastal Tsimshian First Nations of northern British Columbia, who steward the land and utilize the islands for various resources. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569252806825-WESE5DCK1H1436CEAG9H/jacobP8220037.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Jacob Earnshaw, an archaeological colleague and good friend of mine from Victoria also joined the crew. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178877875-2H7ZJ2DUVVD932K9U9HP/P8240102.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Our vessels for the research, from largest to smallest: The Gitga’at Guardian, Thalassiosira Pacifica, Wana’ax (‘Skunk Cabbage’ - the yellow canoe), and Didymosphenia Geminata (‘Rock Snot’ - the green canoe). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178850979-S1NZQCIQBSUF7ROY18WF/P8240097.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 We made camp in a sheltered anchorage on northernmost island, and mostly moved about by canoe and aluminum skiff. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569086356518-9SJQNPVI46I22H00PTF2/DSCF7855.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Camp life consisted substantially of trying to stay warm and dry during late summer storms. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178804865-17SRIGYPFD74E1CNJ3YH/P8230079.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Fresh halibut fried in butter over the fire - eh! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569087529933-CCVQAYKN0UCQO6BWQYJW/DSCF7962.jpg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 In the evenings we played cribbage by the firelight, with Isiah consistently coming out as the champion. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569086376618-Y3RN8HM6GK0NKHM8JLFO/DSCF7852.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Several ponds and small lakes dot the islands. The sediment that has built up in the bottoms of these bodies of water holds information on ancient environments and sea levels. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178739847-XSPRRO8XH9ZZ9PSA73Z5/P8210012.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 We scouted out each pond to assess which would be best to take core samples from for reconstructing the history of sea level change of the area. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178712615-YG0XVEQIXK6N1B9VDDIG/DSCF8122.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Once selected, we paddled our coring gear to each coring target. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178794346-T9NHIMN1OF0OMABVWL2C/P8230071.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Often we had to portage our canoes and gear through the forest to get to the ponds for coring. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569087055825-PSXR4BIWKV9ZY65BGKUB/DSCF7873.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 To core each lake we set up a plywood platform between two canoes from which we manually drive the coring device into the mud at the bottom of each pool - a physically demanding, and often quite mucky endeavour. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569086943157-DCMI6WID3EPUDEJP63GM/DSCF7902.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Collecting the core sample requires a lot of person-power to drive the corer down through meters of sediment, representing thousands of years of accumulation. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569087462236-4UNK7GCCV0UYVQD7Z2W9/DSCF7908.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The core sample is extracted in meter-long sections and extruded into split ABS pipes for packaging to take to the lab. In this section of core from 6 m into the mud at the bottom of a small lake there is a clear transition from brown lake sediment to gray clay that accumulated immediately after the Ice Age glaciers had melted from the islands, probably 16,000+ years ago. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569123884603-2BE0BMNB3FNOIOSHH2GE/DSCF7916.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 In this section of core from a lake about 5 meters above sea level there is a layer of gray sand with clam shell near to the top, indicating that at one point in time sea level was at least 5 meters higher on the island, and what is today a freshwater lake was once a sandy intertidal beach area. The brown sediment below indicates another sea level transition further back in time. In the laboratory we study diatom microfossils in the sediment to pinpoint the full nature of the sea level change and date when these changes occurred. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569123556425-4MHSF4Q1HGG1PJYEPWFR/DSCF7987.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Unloading coring gear in a bay on the west side of the islands. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178748154-RAVU52K1MHFDK9WMOI09/image1+%283%29.jpeg Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The center of the main northern island is sphagnum bog land that in places resembles tundra. Many of these bogs also hold sediment records important for understanding past environments and sea levels on islands. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178933129-POLQY1ZZZCNOABRRXN74/P8240141.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 A bog scene. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178636422-JIWYXB6L24N88B6XMNGZ/DSCF8041.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Sometimes you get lucky when coring bogs and you do not need to carry canoes through the woods to raft up the coring platform. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178635706-448GA2MQJ74NK77RNP5J/DSCF8097.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Spencer and I pull up a very long core from deep within the bog. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178678709-90J4PEKL5ADYX341AJ38/DSCF8102.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Here we extrude a a section of core with sand and gravel that was deposited in this location long before it transformed into a bog land. Our sample of cores from multiple elevations across the islands will help us determine when these environmental changes took place, and figure out how stable (or not) sea level has been in the area since the Last Ice Age. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178767342-9SEWYZMUOESEE6YX76BM/P8210014.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Although our focus this year was on collecting geological samples, we still discovered archaeological sites from ancient occupants of the islands. This wall of cobbles and boulders was constructed where a creek runs into a lagoon to create a pooling area that would hold and then trap fish during ebbing tides. Fish traps such as these could increase the yield of food fish for groups of people living out on the Islands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569252877809-9Y6D3SL3JZK2F66RMB0Y/CMT2.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Past Indigenous inhabitants also used various plants for a variety of purposes. This cedar tree has had a rectangular strip of bark removed. Cedar bark had many important uses, including making clothing, shelter, cordage, and basketry. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178906768-090RRVGEVWRJF4JJFZSH/P8240118.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The forests are also full of other edible (and colourful!) flora. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178776701-5C43GYK51J0TUJ8C7287/P8230044.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The huckleberries on the islands are the largest I have ever seen — on this bush they were the size of grapes! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178687689-9HOY88EAVLXSB264B75P/DSCF8112.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The largest land mammals (and top of the terrestrial food chain) on the islands are wolves, which are said to have swum from the nearest large island — a 10 km ocean crossing! This curious wolf visited our camp one morning, likely not having ever seen humans before. Photo by J.K. Earnshaw. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178878290-HYYKCI418XH6PTG9J3PO/P8240104.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 Pulling into a sandy beach in a sheltered bay. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178851303-1HLUO0YTA3FJ9EB7OY1E/P8240098.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 The Gitga’at Scout sits at anchor. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1569178933420-NTBRHLIWTHNNY0CQ44CM/P8240150.JPG Field Work Photos - Outer Coast Coring 2019 A sublime sunset, viewed looking west out to the open waters of the Hecate Strait. https://brynletham.com/field-work-photos/2019/2/26/winter-coring-at-old-town monthly 0.5 2019-02-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243604570-DO8G7FQ6Y1VWHED60J2O/20190217_170806.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243626585-8LWX2P5ERC2UMNSGUS5L/20190218_164008.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243688292-B7JUUEOBYJ7714RK3OYF/20190219_165146.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551244167957-26BT3K8NEU6OX38ILM2A/20190217_130558.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551244182662-4PF2D1O45YWH6P3Z8ARN/P2184866.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243715758-45DOFISCPDV97Y8RQAUF/P2174832.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243744226-CDEOARQF3LW7XZ9Z9BDW/P2184877.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243824404-KA8C22MIC9VXGO3RIIOH/P2184916.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243748370-EQ5ARZEVET8E4AY2EME3/P2184878.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243672130-MG8ETTSNOVZPLLA63R4N/20190219_111248.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243619981-AUOOY9DGOEIP3J4I7NFJ/20190218_131714.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243770813-4VK7ALKW38XUA4UYIYP2/P2184889.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243721955-RVAU0R18N9FDR26RZ8FJ/P2174849.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243775679-TNW8NIN4RIJP87KTU7OT/P2184892.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243796730-IBB6Z5B19LI8W1ZP7DKH/P2184904.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243799703-6ICZ53DPYTTVXERC4F8L/P2184905.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243669676-3E2S8VDMHW3EKJUQJF7F/20190219_133712.jpg Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243823733-XQZYAR66X4NP13IJN3XK/P2184920.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5b935a8a2714e5533f07ad0b/1551243696022-VF1YAP5MXX0LGBEKG53Q/P2174819.JPG Field Work Photos - Winter Coring at Old Town https://brynletham.com/contact daily 0.75 2018-09-21